Relaxing with the In-Laws in Langkawi

December in Singapore is typically wet...very wet.  In fact, Sophia and Cooper's comment, "you never know when it's going to rain" really doesn't apply this time of year, because you do know.  It's ALWAYS about to rain in Singapore in December.  So, with Jennifer's parents in town during the wettest time of year, we decided to schedule a short trip to somewhere a little different and where we knew we'd find more sun.  After all, we figured Kathy and Grant would enjoy some sun and sand after traveling nearly 10,000 miles and leaving behind one of the coldest, snowiest winters in years!

Our destination for this quick trip was Langkawi, Malaysia.  Officially, Langkawi is a collection of over 100 small islands in the Andaman Sea, about 15 or so miles off the coast of mainland Malaysia, and directly on the border with Thailand.  Our visit was to Pulau Langkawi, the largest of the islands and the most popular resort destination. 

We selected the Berjaya Resort, largely based on TripAdvisor reviews and a desire to experience the "over-water" villas.  The villa layout was reminiscent of the Maldives, and at this point we know that we are out of time and will not make it there.  So it checked lots of boxes!  The resort was very large and spread out, which for some TripAdvisor reviewers was an issue.   While we have typically opted for the smaller, more personal hotels during our trips throughout Asia, we found Berjaya to be very comfortable, and several employees provided a very personal touch that made our stay wonderful. Apparently, size really doesn't matter.

Our villas were located side by side, perched over the Andaman sea and offered amazing sunset views every evening.  The rooms were large and included a king size bed, sofa, large bathroom, and good size patio overlooking the sea.  While the resort was large, a quick call to the front desk sent a shuttle our way, which would take us anywhere we wanted to go within the resort - and on most occasions, that was the beach, the pool, and the beach restaurant. 

The beach and pool were both very nice.  The pool had a swim-up bar, waterfall, plenty of lounge chairs and friendly wait staff happy to bring you another cold drink.  The view was really amazing, with heavy vegetation and palm trees framing the pool area and the 2,300 foot high peaks of Mount Chinchang jutting up in the background.  

The beach was likewise beautiful.  The water wasn't as crystal clear as we experienced on Malaysia's east coast (read - Batu Batu posts), but it was very clean and refreshing in the afternoon sun.  We have read about jelly fish issues in the Langkawi sea, but we did not personally experience this.  Plenty of lounge chairs were available along the beach, as well as seating by the unassuming, casual beach bar.  Kayaks, paddle boats, jet skis and other water sports were available along the beach (no charge), and a favorite for the kids, a batik craft area was just a few feet away allowing them to create some great souvenir artwork.  (Jennifer's note:  What?  Favorite for the kids?  My mom and I LOVED painting our masterpieces!)

The resort also has a short mangrove walking path, if you want to get up an personal with some of the wildlife.  Just be careful what you wish for.  Sophia and I came across a few hornbills as well as a monitor lizard that must have been at least 6 feet long.  And even if you aren't walking off the beaten path, the area around the resort is home to Macaques and Dusky Leaf Monkeys.  The latter paid us a visit in the trees by the pool on one afternoon, but weren't really much of a bother.

While we spent much of our stay at the resort, relaxing and enjoying the sun, we did venture out on two excursions during our brief stay.  For the first, we took the short, three minute shuttle ride (ten minute walk) from the Berjaya Resort to the Oriental Village.  The village offers more than 50 shops, restaurants, and activities to chose from, but we had just one in mind...the Langkawi Cable Car.  The Cable Car is the hub of the Oriental Village, and takes passengers on a crazy ride to the peak of Mt. Chinchang and the Langkawi Skybridge.  

Though the skybridge itself is closed for renovations, the cable car ride and view from the three observation decks ABOVE the skybridge are still amazing. Besides, it removed the possibility that I might be too afraid to walk out on the 400 foot long, curved bridge that's precariously balanced across the mountain peaks.  The thing just doesn't look safe!

The views were really amazing, and the kids loved watching the clouds blow through the mountain passes below us.  Cooper insisted it was the coolest thing he's ever done...which he says about almost everything.  You've gotta love how "in the moment" that kid is!  Sophia loved it as well, after she got over her initial fear of the very steep cable car ride to the peak.

Two recommendations - First, the lines for the cable car can get very long with multiple hour wait times...look for the daily promotion and pay the extra money to go to the front of the line.  We were at the peak in 5 minutes vs. waiting 3 hours!  Second, take a postcard and stamp with you.  There is a post office box at the peak of the mountain.  I'm sure you or your kids have a friend who would think it's pretty cool to get a post card from one of the highest peaks in Malaysia)

Our second excursion in Langkawi was much closer to sea level.  In fact, it was exactly at sea level. As one of the world's most active fisherman, it was no surprise that Grant wanted to try his luck fishing the waters of the Andaman Sea, and so we booked a half day trip through the hotel activity desk, and headed just off the coast for Barracuda and a variety of other fish.

Sophia, Cooper, Jennifer, Grant and I headed out on the morning trip, but unfortunately, my luck on fishing trips (or lack thereof) followed me and we didn't fare too well.  We completely struck out with the Barracuda, but Grant and Jennifer managed to catch a few Kerupa and Sophia and I both caught tiny reef fish.  Cooper managed only to catch a good tan, but he was as happy as could be checking in the sights.  Though we didn't catch much, it was a really enjoyable day on the water.

On our final evening in Langkawi, we headed back to the Oriental Village for dinner and to do a little shopping.  Unfortunately, most of the shops were closing up early (Sunday evening) when we finished dinner, so shopping was limited.  But Sophia found a souvenir elephant to add to her collection from our journeys throughout Asia, and Cooper managed to find a toy guitar.  The kid likes what he likes.

While Langkawi was far less "culturally stimulating" than much of our recent travel, it was truly enjoyable.  The beach and pool offered a great alternative to wet and rainy Singapore and our visit just a few days before Christmas was a very relaxing one.  Now, with only a couple months left before we leave Singapore and return to reality in the US, we have officially started the countdown.  Our "bucket list" is long, so you can expect to hear from us again soon!

Finding a new appreciation for "Paradise in Malaysia"

Aside from perhaps our first lazy weekend in Bali, we've always tried to experience the local culture, learn some history, and enjoy a little beach and relaxation time during our travels.  If you were to ask Jennifer or me to name a favorite destination, it would be quite difficult, but Batu Batu would be close to the top of both our lists.

This week, Jennifer and I both gained a much greater appreciation for the tiny island of Pulau Tengah, on which Batu Batu sits, and I felt compelled to share the story.

Pulau Tengah, Malaysia

It started when we were discussing one of Sophia's latest homework assignments..."identify and define several events that have caused humans to migrate."  This was a follow-up assignment to another from a week or so ago when she worked on tracing back the roots of her ancestors.  Thanks for the help on that one Grandmas and Grandpas!  Side note, turns out I'm a mix of Prussian, German, and Swiss, and some of Jennifer's relatives are also from somewhere in Eastern Europe / Russia.    Makes me wonder why we both hate snow so much??

Anyway - as if her assignment on "causes of human migration" wasn't enough to make me realize how much smarter she is than me, her first few answers regarding European migration to America for better opportunities, and her understanding of the Chernobyl and Fukushima disasters when we discussed them, made it crystal clear.

Borrowed Photo - Pulau Tengah 1970s
(Current "Long Beach" at Batu Batu ?)

As we discussed other potential causes for migration, I mentioned refugees, thinking mostly about the current situation in Syria.  Soon, however, we shifted gears and talked about the 100,000 or more refugees who were crammed onto the tiny island of Pulau Tengah for up to two years at a time as they fled Vietnam in the 1970s.

The fact that Sophia had been to the island, and we are visiting Vietnam in a few months, made the lesson that much more impactful and personal.  Once we found a few blogs and web pages built and maintained over the last few years by some of the refugees themselves, it became a special, emotional learning experience for all of us.

For anyone who read our original post on Batu Batu, you may recall the brief history of the island (Pulau Tengah) on which Batu Batu is located.  At only a mile wide and several miles off the coast of Malaysia, the island has been inhabited by only three known groups of people.  Vietnamese refugees in the 1970s and 1980s, the crew and cast of Expedition Robinson (Swedish version of Survivor) from 1998-2010, and currently, the staff and guests of the Batu Batu resort.

As we talked and read about the Vietnamese refugees on Pulau Tengah and other islands in the South China Sea, it really made our relaxing weekends of swimming, eating, and dock diving at Batu Batu seem quite trivial... let alone the filming of a reality show.

Several first hand accounts from refugees who successfully reached the islands, spoke of late night escapes from Vietnam on small, overcrowded "mock fishing boats", without any real sense of where they were headed.  Anywhere but there, was a better option for many, it seemed.

Borrowed Photo - Refugee Boats

For many, the success of getting past border patrols was just the beginning of a potentially hellish experience.  Many died at sea due to weather and exposure.  Others met even more sinister fates when they came across pirates or other vessels at sea, who took what they wanted (including women and children) and killed the remainder of the passengers on board.

For those who made it safely to one of many islands in the Gulf of Thailand and South China Sea, conditions weren't much better and in some case considerably worse.  As I read about several islands off the coast of Thailand, it was clear that death at sea might not have been such a bad end.  Needless to say, I didn't share the graphic nature of many of these stories with Sophia...at 10 years old, she's not quite ready for that learning experience yet.

For those who were fortunate enough to escape Vietnam, avoid the pirates, and bribe their way past patrols, reaching a UN refugee camp began the transition to a new life in Europe, Australia, or the US.  While not all survived long enough to reach their new life abroad, due to poor conditions and lengthy waits for approvals to enter a new host country, hundreds of thousands did.

By nearly all accounts I read regarding Pulau Tengah, life as a refugee at the UN camp on the island was significantly better than the alternatives in Thailand or at sea.  It obviously wasn't perfect, and a hugely different experience than anything I could ever imagine, but for many, it sounds as though they have very fond memories of what must have been a chaotic, exciting, and terrifying experience.

Comparing 1970s Photo vs. 2013

I won't try to relay the stories that we read, as I can't possibly do them justice, but if you are interested in learning more about the "boat people" who made Pulau Tengah and other islands home, I highly recommend taking a look at these two sites:

• Returning to Pulau Tengah
• refugeecamps.net/tengah.html

For anyone in Southeast Asia interested in visiting the Batu Batu resort, I hope the stories, photos and commentary makes your visit a little more interesting.  If nothing else, it will surely make you appreciate the beautiful experience that awaits you at Batu Batu.

For those too far away to make the weekend trip to this beautiful island, I hope the information provides some insight and perspective on just how lucky most of us are.

For us, learning the history of the island was both educational and humbling.  We realize how fortunate we are to enjoy this island, and are even more anxious to return to Batu Batu (in October) to learn more about the refugee camp and to see first hand some of the artifacts that remain behind, now 30+ years later.

Comparing 1970s photo vs. 2013
"Arrival Dock Comparison"

Comparing 1970s photo vs. 2013
(Current view is of Restaurant and Lobby at Batu Batu)

Comparing 1970s photo vs. 2013
(Current "Sunset Beach" at Batu Batu)

Paradise in Malaysia

One of many islands off the mainland coast of Malaysia, Pulau Tengah is only one-mile wide and has been host to only two known, vastly different groups of people.  The first was a group of Vietnamese refugees in the 1970s and the second was the cast of the Swiss version of Survivor - "Expedition Robinson".  After hearing from a neighbor that a small, 20-villa eco-friendly resort had recently opened for business and had some good "buzz", we were more than willing to play the part of guinea pig.

Our soon-to-be sister in law Kara, (Greg's fiancee) was along with us for this trip - part of her two week visit to Singapore.  This made it especially fun for the kids as they were excited to show Kara a good time.  To get to the island, the five of us were up at dawn and in the car by 6:00 am in order to beat the Singapore National Day traffic.  It was about a three-hour drive, crossing the border and up the east coast of Malaysia, mostly through palm tree farms.

After meeting a representative of the resort at the "Port Cafe" in the tiny town of Mersing, we enjoyed an adventurous, high speed, sometimes tooth loosening boat ride to the small (less than a mile wide) island.  It was all well worth it once we saw the translucent blue waters of Pulau Tengah, and were greeted by the friendly staff of Batu Batu.

We had to wait a few minutes for our villa, but that was just fine by us.  We took advantage of the opportunity to order a cold drink and the kids quickly changed into swim suits and were on the beach hunting for shells before we even sat down on one of the huge, comfortable daybeds found scattered around the bar area.

When our villa was ready, we were escorted down the palm tree-lined sand path that connects most villas to the reception, dining and pool areas.  Our villa sat directly on the beach, offering a beautiful, unobstructed view of the white sand and South China Sea.  Inside, was a king-sized bed, children's annex (with bunkbeds) and quite possibly the largest bathroom I've ever seen.  Outside, we had a nice beachfront patio and steps that led directly onto the beach.


 

View from Villa

We arrived on a Thursday and spent most of the first day exploring the island.  First, we were treated to an amazing lunch.  The resort offers three options per meal - but you don't need more than that.  Everything we ate was delicious and finding out what was on the menu for each meal quickly became one of the most exciting parts of the day.


After lunch, we continued to explore the beach just outside our villa where Kara, Sophia and Cooper found dozens of huge, beautiful clam shells.  We then made our way around to Long Beach - the largest, most picturesque beach on the island.  We hiked across the open beach, then took a "trail" (if you could call it that) to a more isolated part of the island.  Here, we had the beach to ourselves and found a perfect little spot to swim, snorkel, and basically lounge for the afternoon.   That evening we had another delicious meal (I had Papaya Salad with Prawn and Roasted Rack of Lamb) and, after getting the kids to bed, we enjoyed a cocktail on the patio outside our villa.

Lunch!  - Fried Prawn Noodle

On Friday we woke up to the sounds of the ocean and headed towards Long Beach for another day of...well, nothing.  We made a stop at the dock we had arrived on, this time, jumping the 20 feet or so from the top of the dock to the water below.  This was probably one of the highlights of the trip.  I jumped first, followed by Kara - and soon after, by Cooper and Sophia.  I was amazed that the kids made the jump, but after getting the nerve to do it once, they didn't want to stop!  Over and over they jumped from the dock until I got tired of treading water in the swells and begged them to head to the beach for a while.

This time we weren't alone on the beach, but with only 20 villas total on the entire island, nothing's ever crowded.  Soon Sophia and Cooper were playing with a few other kids, and like a scene from Survivor or Lost, they were constructing balance beams across the tidepools with fallen palm trees.  The whole scene was hysterical to watch.

After a long day in the sun, we enjoyed another unbelievable dinner (Thai Chili Chicken Salad and Beef Rendang for me).  With the kids in bed, we pulled a daybed from the patio to the beach where Kara saw about 20 shooting stars in 4 minutes....which all turned out to be birds flying through a nearby spotlight.  (you had to be there, it was funny).

On our final day at Batu Batu, we rented three kayaks to go on "turtle patrol".  The island is a marine preserve with a huge part of their mission focused on supporting the breeding of green sea turtles.  After only three minutes of paddling we came across a huge turtle - at least 3 feet across - followed by a couple of smaller ones about five minutes later.  Sophia was in heaven.

We traveled about a third of the way around the island before Cooper told me he wanted to keep going ALL THE WAY AROUND the island.  This was a great idea - especially if you were simply enjoying the ride as Sophia and Cooper were - but not such a great idea if you're the one who has to paddle!  We tried it anyway and were glad we did.  On the far side of the island, it was deserted.  A few small, untouched beaches were there as well as some amazing views of the forest and rock cliffs unreachable unless you hike and have a machete.

 

Finally, we made it back to the resort, glad to have made it all the way around the island, but even happier to relax in the cool pool and enjoy a cold drink.  Our boat ride back to Mersing and eventually Singapore was only a few hours away, so we did our best to soak in as much of Batu Batu as we could in the time we had left.  The kids hunted for more shells and played in the pool and Jennifer, Kara and I relaxed and enjoyed the sun.

Eventually, however, all good things come to an end - and so did our trip to Batu Batu.  After another 20 minutes on the boat we met our driver in Mersing and headed back to Singapore.  This time, we saw dozens of monkeys along the road.  Apparently they had slept in on Thursday morning when we drove by the same areas at 8am, but they were everywhere on Saturday evening. 

A few hours later, we all wished we were still at Batu Batu enjoying another delicious dinner and listening to the waves.  Instead, we were sitting in traffic at Singapore immigration, eating the Pringles I bought when we stopped for gas in Johor Bahru.  However, once we crossed back into Singapore and the road names started to look familiar, it was quite comforting.  Especially since I know we'll go back to Batu Batu.  In fact, for those of you who visit us in the next 24 months, it's likely to be on the agenda!

Taking a Gamble

In a country as structured and safe as Singapore, it may come as a surprise that there are opportunities here to take a "risk".  No, I'm not talking about going out for the day without an umbrella or ordering food at the hawker center without knowing what kind of "meat" it is - though these do represent some serious potential risks.  No, I'm talking about good old-fashioned gambling and I decided to write about this tonight because I spent the weekend "gambling" in two different ways.

Saturday - I made the trip from Singapore to Johor Bahru, Malaysia, with a few co-workers and new friends.  I mention this as a "gamble" only because most Singaporeans insist you're gambling with your life if you go to Johor Bahru.  I found it no more threatening than a night out in Philadelphia.  (well, you judge how much of a gamble that is)  I was, as far as I could tell, the only Caucasian within 20 or 30 miles of where we had dinner, but it really didn't bother me.

Dinner was casual, a lot of fun, and included Beef and Chicken Satay, Salted Egg Crab, Steamed Whole Catfish, and my new favorite, Pork Knuckle.    The restaurant was what they call a "coffee shop", which is very common in Malaysia.  It was open air and full of locals - most eating as families around small, flimsy wooden tables, drinking ice-cold sour plum and lime drinks, periodically laughing at the Chinese comedy / drama that was playing on the TV on the wall.

 

It was about a 90 minute drive, dodging motorbikes, to get to Malaysia, through customs, and to the restaurant, but it was a unique experience and well worth the trip.  I have several hundred Malaysian ringett, a few more stamps in my passport, and a new appreciation for just how spicy the chili crabs are here in Asian.

Sunday - I decided I would try some more traditional gambling.  From what I've discovered so far, there are three "legal" forms of gambling in Singapore.  To date, I've tried only one.....but my time here has just begun! 

The Casinos:

There are only two casinos in the country (Marina Bay Sands and Resorts World Sentosa), but they are large and pretty amazing. The Marina Bay Sands is slightly smaller than the MGM - which is the largest casino floor in Las Vegas - the MBS is fairly large. 

What I find most interesting is the country's policy on Singaporeans gambling in the casinos.  It turns out that citizens must pay $100 to enter the casino, or an annual fee of $2,000 for unlimited entry for one year.  For foreigners, just show your passport and they are more than happy to take your money from you the old fashioned way at the table vs. the casino door.

Singapore Pools:

I was surprised that sports betting was such a big deal in Singapore.  Sure, they love football (soccer), but there

really isn't a ton of professional sports played in Singapore.  The "Singapore Pool" is the equivalent of a sports book in the US.  You can place wagers on motor sports, football, etc. at any one of the more than 300 "Singapore Pools" scattered all over the island. 

Of course, for me, I was very happy to see that my bovada.lv account still works here in Singapore, so I've been able to bet on my new favorite "local" sport - the Australian Football League - from the comfort of home.  (I would have noted the online account as a 4th "legal" form of gambling, but I'm not sure if it's even legal in the US, let alone here).  I've adopted the Carlton Blues as "my team" while here in Singapore - so feel free to follow along from home via yahoo sports, etc. 

Singapore Turf Club

I've been looking forward to a day at the track all week - and I was very pleased that the weather was cooperating.  In fact, I didn't even take an umbrella on this trip (ok, I actually forgot it), but I didn't need it.

The Singapore Turf Club is about 20 minutes from where we live, conveniently located at the exit of one of the MRT stations.  I paid $8 for admission into the air conditioned club, which was much more crowded than I expected.  That said, it was easy to find a beer and seat to watch the races.  After a few minutes, I got the nerve to figure out the betting system and place a few bets.  It's a little different, but you can essentially place all the same Win, Place, Show, Exacta, Trifecta, etc. bets...they're just called different things and you have to fill out a little form to show what you want to bet before going to the bet window.  (kind of like completing the SAT's with a your number 2 pencil and staying in the "bubbles" to ensure the right bet is placed)

What made it especially interesting were two things. 

1. The race call was broadcast in English in one half of the club, while the other half was in Mandarin - so you had to choose your seat carefully.  Truth is, I'm kind of superstitious when I bet on the horses (go to the same bet window every time if I'm winning, for example) - so after winning my first two bets sitting in the Mandarin section, and losing the next bet while sitting in the English section - I quickly moved back and listened to the Mandarin race call......unfortunately, my luck didn't change with the move.
2. The fans were crazy!  Aside from cheering on a Triple Crown hopeful at Belmont, I've never heard more enthusiastic fans at a race.  Every few minutes there would be a roar of screaming and arm waving as people watched simulcast races from Malaysia - followed by even more screaming when the live races went off in Singapore.  It really made for an exciting day at the races.

Thanks to a couple exacta winners, I did win enough to cover all my bets, the cost of a couple beers (a great deal at $4 each), and my entry fee - all in all, a pretty successful day at the track.

That's about it for this week.  I head to the Philippines on Tuesday for a few days of work - so I'll send another update with my perspective on Manila next Sunday........