Wednesday 23 October 2013

Visitors from OZ and a visit to Khao Lak, Thailand

Last December, our friends, John and Deb Voger, welcomed us into their Melbourne home to enjoy the Christmas holiday.   When they announced they were planning a visit to Singapore in September, we were happy to return the favor and invited them to stay with us.  While Singapore is not huge, the Vogers were only visiting for a short while, so we had all sorts of plans ready, to show them around the island, and to give them a taste of the very diverse culture and food.

Vogers at Botanic Gardens
Wet market treasures
We visited the Empress wet market on Farrer Road catching a glimpse (and whiff) of local produce, fish heads, raw chicken, seafood and freshly butchered frogs.  While the frogs looked tasty, we opted for Nasi Lemak for breakfast instead.

We walked through the Botanic Gardens, shopped and ate our way along Orchard Road, Joo Chiat Road and Chinatown, and even bared our feet for a treatment at the fish spa, which coincidentally was a highlight for the kids.

Fish Spa
We checked out Singapore's coastline, including zip-lining to Sentosa's Siloso Beach, and we visited friends at Mana Mana Beach Club and Singapore's East Coast Park. 

Eventually, the adults managed to get an evening out in Clarke Quay, singing and dancing at the Pump Room and Highlander (photo evidence has been expunged) while Josh Voger kept the kids under control at home.  From what I remember of our night out, I think we might have been smarter to have Josh provide supervision for the adults instead.


Afternoon at Mana Mana Beach Club
Needless to say, we were worn out and ready to relax after all that running, touring, eating and shopping.  We were all in need of a vacation from the Voger’s vacation!  

Khao Lak Beach View
Thanks to a quick two-hour flight, Thailand offered the perfect destination for some time on the beach, cheap massages, and the opportunity to relax for a long weekend away from Singapore. 


Thailand has been on our “must visit” list since arriving in Singapore, however, we’ve been pushing it further and further down the priority list, knowing we’d get there eventually.  It turns out that was a good plan, because it allowed us to enjoy it with our friends. 

We decided on the area of Khao Lak, Thailand, in order to enjoy the beautiful beaches and a slightly more “family-oriented” night time scene vs. Phuket, located about an hour further south.  Since arriving in Singapore, we’ve become dependent on TripAdvisor for solid recommendations on hotels – usually opting for the small boutiques with great guest ratings.  This time, we found ourselves reluctantly booking the Ramada Resort in Khao Lak, which is clearly not boutique, but was highly rated.   I was not overly thrilled with the idea (Jennifer's note:  I dragged him kicking and screaming but couldn't ignore the value and TA reviews!), but must admit we couldn't have selected a better option.  The hotel staff was very friendly, the rooms spacious, clean and comfortable, and the location was perfect.



Pool at Ramada Resort
After about an hour drive from the Phuket airport, we arrived and checked in at the hotel.  A quick change into bathing suits, and we immediately headed for the beachfront pool (and bar) to enjoy a dip and a drink.  We explored the grounds of the hotel for the next hour or so, and couldn’t help but think of the tragedy that unfolded right where we were standing, just 9 years earlier.   Khao Lak was hit the hardest of the Thailand towns and the setting of movie "The Impossible" was a resort just down the road from ours.

Reminders of the deadly December 26, 2004 tsunami that rolled ashore all across the Thailand coast are still visible.  You notice them in the very prominent “Tsunami Evacuation” signs, the recently created Khao Lak Tsunami Museum, twisted and broken sea walls, and the Police Boat that remains more than a mile inland precisely where it came to rest in 2004.

Though it’s hard to forget what happened, the people of Khao Lak have obviously bounced back.  New and repaired resorts dot the coast, as well as restaurants, shops, tailors and massage parlors just about everywhere you look.  You could hardly walk more than 20 feet without someone (politely) offering you a new suit or a Thai massage.  This interaction with the locals is what really made us enjoy the location of the Ramada.  All of this local business was just outside the front entrance and we were very quickly and easily able to visit the local shops, tiny outdoor bars, and a variety of restaurants. 

We ate at two excellent local restaurants.  The first, Ton Son Restaurant, was located on the beach directly next door to the Ramada.  It was obviously a family-owned venture, as the 9 year-old son expertly waited on our table.  Seriously, this kid was impressive.  The kids loved playing with the family dogs, Whiskey and her pup Vodka (best names ever), which allowed us adults as much time as we wanted.  And I have to say it was some of the best food I have ever had, at ridiculously cheap prices.  I had to laugh when Deb and Jennifer ordered a bottle of wine - they had to send a staff member to the store to buy it.  Guess it's more of a beer-drinking establishment! 

  

Another restaurant that shocked us with the quality of the food was a couple of blocks from the Ramada.  I have no idea what the name is but I vow to figure it out.  It really did not look like much from the outside, and when we sat down I was admittedly a little nervous.  Our tables (we always had a "kid" and "adult" table - ingenious) were next to the exposed kitchen, and wow...it was like something you'd see on Survivor.  We watched as huge fresh fish were brought in and butchered before our eyes, with the fillets thrown directly on a gas-powered grill.  The menu (like all menus at the local joints) was like 32 pages long - ordering was definitely the hardest part.  I can't even remember what we ordered (except for barracuda in a green curry sauce) but as with Ton Son, it was a huge highlight of the trip.

This is how we rolled.
Suit Fitting

Unlike many of our recent travels, we actually did very little while in Thailand.  Yes, John, Deb and I enjoyed a massage EVERY MORNING (why not, when they are $9 for an hour), and we spent countless hours on the beach and in the pool.  John and I also invested in a few new tailored suits, an experience I couldn't pass up while in Thailand.  We even became regulars at "Cloud Nine", where Ramon and "Our Father" played live music nightly.

Jennifer's note:  I must expand on our nights at Cloud Nine.  I think Deb and I were there every night, singing and dancing.  I learned Ramon's life story and Deb actually invited a honeymooning couple to visit her in Melbourne after a 30-minute conversation.  But the BEST part was this drunk guy dancing by himself for eternity.  This video is dark, but you can get a glimpse of what we got to watch for about an hour.  And awwwww...he tried to give me a paper rose! Unfortunately, when it was time for crazy dancing guy to leave, he got in a car and drove himself away.  Scary thought...

 

But, what really made this trip special was the time we were able to spend with the Vogers, as well as other friends visiting Khao Lak at the same time, (The Foulds and Martin families).   For the kids, the opportunity to visit with a baby elephant at Le Meridien Resort, jump on the giant surf trampoline, or simply play together around the pool was enough to keep them extremely happy.  For the adults, we just enjoyed the delicious Thai food, Singha beer, and an opportunity to relax, share stories, and catch up with old friends.

I can't wait for the chance to do it again!


Resident Elephant at Le Meridien Hotel






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