Friday, 16 August 2013

Update on Stamford American International School

Each week I receive several emails asking for an update on my original blog post on Stamford American International School.  So on the eve of orientation for the new school year, I figure it's about time to write about how last year turned out.

Is the school perfect?  No, of course not.  To say it was would be unrealistic.  So here are the pros and cons so far:

Academics:
Leaving for the 4th grade overnight camping trip
I am thrilled with the education my children received last year.  I credit most of that to the two teachers my children were lucky enough to get.  Cooper had Mrs. Piroshka (PJ) Roth for 2nd grade and Sophia had Mr. Lachlan Wood for 4th grade.  When you bring so many children together from so many backgrounds, it is difficult to create a work environment that challenges and supports everyone, and both teachers did an amazing job.  When I had concerns (rare) they were addressed immediately and I feel my children were challenged and kept interested. 

I  was also impressed with the amount of writing done in both grades, and was especially impressed with the public speaking exposure in Sophia's class.  At one point, the kids were required to give a speech running for Class President, Vice President, Secretary or Treasurer, and the speeches were broadcast over the internet for the families to watch.  The teacher even gave estimated times for parents so they could plan their day accordingly. 

We are rapidly coming to the end of our time here, and while we were at home in the US last month, both kids had to be tested for entrance to a school upon our return.  They had to take part of the Stanford Achievement Test (not to be confused with Stamford :-) and I can tell you that they were *well* prepared for it.  The test administrator was extremely impressed, and I attribute much of that to the curriculum at Stamford.

Teachers: 
I already praised their homeroom teachers, but I have to also give credit to all the other teachers I have met.  I've gotten to know several of them pretty well, and I am confident that my kids are in great hands whether they are in math enrichment, PE, art class etc. 

They won the 10U Championship!
Sports and Extra-Curricular Activities:
As far as the after-school activities, they are trying hard and have done a decent job ironing out some glitches.  It's not perfect yet, but they've improved the sign-up process each time and they have a good variety of activity choices.  If you have a high school-aged child who is a sports star, I am not sure this is the school for you (yet).  I implore the school (because I know they will read this) to spend more money and effort on improving the athletics...it really is the key to winning over a huge demographic of parents out there.  The kids need better uniforms, access to outside coaching and more diversity of sports.

Note:  There are many wonderful first-class coaches at SAIS, and we are lucky to have them.  This is meant to suggest that not all coaches should be drawn from the pool of SAIS teachers.  If parents have experience coaching, or it is smart to bring in outside coaches to make the teams competitive, then it should be done.

Parent Culture:
Coming to Stamford, I was admittedly nervous of the whole "expat mom" culture.  I don't get dressed up to go to school (okay, maybe I'll try to look decent at orientation tomorrow, but you will frequently see me in my exercise clothes!) and I am not one of those "ladies who lunch".  After meeting the other moms, I feel silly that I was ever worried.  I have made some of the most wonderful friends in the last year, and look forward to visiting these friends all over the world for many years to come. 

School Events:
International Fiesta
The school holds some really great events during the year.  One is the International Fiesta, and features a ceremony much like the opening ceremonies of the Olympics.  The children line up by country (and are encouraged to wear traditional  dress of their homeland) and march around the gymnasium behind their respective flags.  Many performances follow, and then country-specific food can be sampled.  It was a really cool event, and I was fortunate that my in-laws just happened to be visiting at the time so they could witness it.

Other major events include a huge, elaborate Halloween party, Christmas party with silent auction baskets provided by each class, and a fancy charity gala in the Spring.  The PTA at Stamford certainly works hard!

Sophia's Friends at the International Fiesta
I'm sure I'm missing some things, but I hope this gives interested parties better insight into the school a year later.  We have probably only five months left at Stamford and I'm truly devastated to leave.  I thought we'd have at least another year, but that's not how it has worked out. 

Best of luck in your school decisions.  There are many wonderful schools in Singapore, but for us, Stamford was hands down the right choice.

As much I want to help, please do not send us questions on the school, as we have already repatriated to the US (March 2014).  Best of luck!



Thursday, 15 August 2013

End of the silence from Singapore??

Perhaps I should have renamed this entire blog "Silent in Singapore" during the nearly three month hiatus since our last update.  It was not intentional that Jennifer and I went so silent - far from it.  If you haven't realized it yet, neither of us are short on words.

Truth is, the last three months have been full of both new adventures as well as reunions with old friends and family.  When I wrote my last post in May, we had just said farewell to my parents after their visit in Singapore and we were beginning to plan for our own "home leave" return to the US in late June.  But before we packed the bags for our return to the States, we managed to squeeze in the end of Sophia and Cooper's school year, and a business trip to Japan and South Korea.

For the kids, the end of the year was both an exciting and sad experience.  Both really enjoyed their teachers and had made great friends at SAIS, so they weren't really in a hurry for it to end.  Some of their friends would return to their home countries for good at the end of the year, as their parents wrapped up their work assignments.  Luckily for us, most friends were boarding planes for only short visits with family before returning to Singapore again for the 2013 / 2014 school year. 
Pool party after last day of school
On the final day of class, we all enjoyed a great afternoon with a few of these friends (the Foulds and Wihmans in particular) to wrap up the school year and began saying goodbyes before everyone set off on their summer vacations and home leave trips to the US, Europe, etc.

The end of year party at the Belvedere pool gave way to my next adventure, and I headed directly to the airport for a week in Japan and South Korea.  Since arriving in Singapore, both were high on my list of countries to visit and experience, and I was very excited about the opportunity to do so.

First stop - Tokyo!  After an overnight flight, I arrived at a rainy, chilly Narita airport.  After nearly 18 months in Singapore, I didn't even consider taking a jacket with me to Tokyo in the summertime, but I sure could have used one on that dreary morning.  Once again, I was impressed (perhaps a little disappointed) by the ease of immigration, speed through customs, and the giant, dummy proof signage directing me to the bus for my hotel.

SAP Earthquake Emergency Kit
After check in and a quick shower at the Intercontinental ANA hotel, I was off to the SAP office with the help of the concierge, who wrote out the address in Japanese, and the white gloved taxi driver, who knew the way.  The Tokyo SAP office wasn't all that different from the office in Singapore or NSQ....except that I was one of only two white guys in the building... and the presence of earthquake emergency kits and hard hats at every desk!  Luckily, these were not required during my visit.

Though the office atmosphere was somewhat familiar, the unique challenges of communicating with and working with my Japanese colleagues were not.  Dinner, likewise provided a great opportunity to experience Japan and Japanese culture!  As expected, there was plenty of Sake, loads of sushi, several traditional Japanese favorites, and lots of laughs with the team.

First Course at Dinner

Sake Offerings at Meiji Shrine
I also did my best to explore Tokyo outside the walls of SAP during my limited free time, and with the help and guidance of some co-workers, I was able to squeeze in a lot during my short stay.  The highlights... a visit to the Shibuya train station and the Hachiko Dog statue (basis for the movie Hachi), the Shibuya "scatter" pedestrian crossing (apparently the busiest in the world), Yoyogi Park, the Meiji Shrine, and a walk down Takeshita Street.  I also (briefly) checked out Roppongi Hill, but quickly made my way out of the tourist filled, red light district, and took in views of Tokyo Tower from the Mori Tower observation deck.

Scatter Crossing - Shibuya

Tokyo Tower and City - from Mori Tower Observation Deck
I also got a "local" view of the Tokyo suburbs, albeit hosted by an American colleague, who took me for a Saturday morning jog along the Tama River.  Although several nights of Sake consumption made the 10K jog more than I needed, I thoroughly enjoyed this unique perspective of "normal" life just outside the city - in particular, witnessing the intensity of Japanese little league baseball being played on fields along the river's edge.

As my time wound down in Tokyo, I headed to the Haneda Airport for an EARLY morning flight to Seoul!

Once again, my arrival, immigration, customs clearance, and finding transportation at Incheon airport were a breeze.  I arrived at the Intercontinental Parnas hotel in Gangnam-gu, Seoul, way too early to check in, so I decided to spend the time checking out the nearby Bongeunsa Buddhist Temple.
Bongeunsa Temple
The temple, originally founded in 794, was severely damaged during the Joseon Dynasty between the late 1300s to 1800s - and furthermore during the Korean War.  However, it has since been restored, and now provides a unique glimpse into the past among the modern shopping and condo complexes that make up most of Gangnam.



Once again, I found my time in the SAP office to be a very rewarding professional experience, and my time at dinner (and the HOURS after dinner) to be very enlightening and entertaining.  Let's just say my colleagues were tremendous hosts, who educated me on the wonders of late night drinks like Soju, Soju bombs, and Makgeolli, as well as a variety of traditional Korean foods... though I probably could have done without the fermented crab - and that last Soju bomb!

Outside the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel / DMZ
On my final day in Seoul, I had the opportunity to experience something unlike anything else I've done...a visit to the Demilitarized Zone and Joint Security Area (Panmunjom) between North and South Korea.  It was an extremely educational and humbling experience and I would highly recommend it to anyone who visits Seoul.  Make the time!

My particular tour was through an organization called Korridor, with tours departing from the USO at Camp Kim. The tour included stops at Camp Bonifas, the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, Dora Observatory, Dorasan Station, The Bridge of no Return, and the Joint Security Area.  I'll be the first to admit, my knowledge of the Korean War was very limited before my visit, and I knew nothing about any of the places visited prior to the tour.  I'm now so glad to have been educated, and will briefly describe the highlights.

The first stop was the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, a 1 mile long tunnel secretly dug by the North Koreans a few hundred feet beneath the DMZ.  Intended to act as one of several tunnels to support a secret North Korean attack into South Korea, the tunnel was discovered after a North Korean defector informed the South in 1978.

Nearby, we also visited the Dora Observatory, from which I got my first glimpse across the most heavily militarized border in the world, and into North Korea.  We also stopped at Dorasan Station, the final South Korean terminal on the railway connecting South Korea and North Korea.

In order to visit the most amazing spot on the tour, the Joint Security Area situated directly on the border of North and South Korea, we first sat through a security briefing and transferred to a different bus at Camp Bonifas.  Here, US and South Korean soldiers proudly declare they are "In Front of Them All", in reference to their forward-most position on the Korean peninsula.

Following instructions to turn off all cameras, our bus entered the DMZ passing through a narrow stretch of road surrounded by explosive-lined barricades, mine fields, and high voltage fencing.   If that weren't enough to internalize the nature of the conflict between the two countries, the armed military escorts on the bus and the armored lead vehicle ahead of the bus made it quite evident.  Bill Clinton didn't call it the "scariest place on Earth" for nothing!

Joint Security Area
North Korea is through that door!

I see you too, Kim Jong-un
After a short drive, we reached the JSA, where we were just a few steps from the border, and eventually were able to set foot into North Korea, while inside one of the South Korean managed buildings that straddle the border between the two Koreas.

Words and pictures really don't do it justice, and the experience remains one of the most unnerving, exhilarating, and yet humbling of my life.

Just 72 hours after returning to Singapore from Seoul, I found myself back at the Changi airport, this time headed to the US for a few weeks with family and friends.  Looking back on the days before our trip "home" to the US, Japan and Korea both offered truly amazing and unique experiences.  Once again, thanks to this blog, I'm forced to recount and document them... and that's a really good thing.

Hopefully, this update will start the ball rolling again, and you can expect to see more from both Jennifer and I in the coming weeks on this page.  After all, we've got plenty to say about our most recent visit with family and friends in Fenwick Island, DE, the corresponding visit from Scott and Kristen Lehman in Singapore... and the beginning of what could be our final 6 months on the "red dot".

For now, I'm going to actually get some sleep in Singapore - and we'll do our best to avoid being "Silent in Singapore" ever again.

Friday, 17 May 2013

Sri Lanka Part II - Yala National Park

Ok, ok, I know I'm delinquent with this follow-up post regarding our second stop in Sri Lanka...but let's pretend, like most things in Sri Lanka, the slow pace simply adds to the experience.

If you want the fast video version of our safari trip - here you go.  (Jennifer's note:  Watch it!  It's worth it just for Sophia's "IT'S A JACKAL!" discovery.)  For all the details, keep reading!


After Galle, the next stop on our visit was the Yala National Park on the South Eastern tip of Sri Lanka.  But before we could enjoy the wildlife that awaited us, we again hopped aboard Ruwan's van for a harrowing road trip through small villages, bustling street side markets and some absolutely beautiful coastline.

Traffic was much lighter for most of this drive, though we did encounter our share of delays caused by congested village streets or the occasional water buffalo blocking the road.  Likewise, the Express Bus was no stranger to this route and often whizzed by, nearly running us off the road.  By now, this barely phased us.  (Jennifer's note:  Uhhhh, you weren't sitting behind your parents.  Trust me, they were phased.)

A short way into the drive, we stopped to watch some local fisherman located just off the beach.  These "stilt fishermen" are apparently a relatively common sight on the Southwest Coast of Sri Lanka, but for us, it was quite unusual.  This method of fishing is said to have started in Sri Lanka after WWII, as fishermen tired of fighting for a spot on the coast's rocky edges and began using large metal posts left over from the War to perch themselves above the water.  Soon others realized a sturdy piece of wood would work just as well, and thus, "stilt fishing" was born.  Like us, you may ask why they don't simply use nets??  The answer, we were told, is that stilt fishing doesn't disrupt the fish as dramatically as the nets, and therefore, the fish continue to visit the waters close to shore.  Disturbing them would cause them to relocate elsewhere, forcing the fisherman to travel further off shore or to more isolated parts of the coast.

Not one to pass up the opportunity to try something different (and pose for a good photo op), I took the offer of one of the fisherman, and hopped up on his "petta" - the cross bar attached to the vertical pole.  Alas - didn't get one bite! (Jennifer's note:  But the fisherman who "offered" up his rod got the tip he requested!  Kids, it's true, nothing is free in this world.)


Back on the road, we zoomed along through a number of small fishing villages before arriving at Chaaya Wild Yala, our accommodations for the next couple days, located just outside the Yala National Park.  We had originally planned to stay in the National Park at a tented safari camp, but the government recently forced all such camps out of the park to preserve the natural habitat of the animals.  Both Jennifer and my mom were more than happy to change plans and enjoy the comfort of air conditioning, king-sized beds, indoor bathrooms and a fully stocked poolside bar.  Truth be told, after arriving at Chaaya Wild Yala, I was likewise pleased we made the change.

The location allowed for some unique encounters with the wildlife, even prior to hopping on a jeep for a safari.   Wild boar and water buffalo often roamed the grounds of the resort at night and warnings were provided at check-in about wandering around the grounds alone at night for fear of the animals you may find....more likely, the animals that would find you.  This turned out to be good advice, since the buffalo apparently enjoyed the grasses just outside the rooms, and we found ourselves enjoying a glass of wine with an unexpected water buffalo guest one evening.  He didn't bother us, so we didn't bother him...besides, we only had one bottle, so we didn't offer him anything. We were also visited at the pool deck by a family of 10-12 wild boar one evening as the kids took a late night swim in the pool.  And on our final morning at Chaaya, we found ourselves surrounded by 15-20 mischievous Langur monkeys who enjoyed an early morning drink from the pool and a romp on the poolside lounges and chairs.

The resort is also just a few hundred yards from the ocean - with several rooms only feet from the beach.  We didn't spot any wildlife on the beach itself (except the wild dogs that chased me from it at sunrise one morning....another story), however it was evident by several piles of dung that something large had visited recently.  Closer to the water, and away from the dung, the kids were able to enjoy searching for shells with their grandmother, and we all enjoyed watching the rough surf pound the rocks at the shore line.  If you visit Chaaya Wild Yala, don't miss the beach.  While you really can't swim due to the rough surf, ... it seems to be a hidden gem.

But before we even had a chance to check out the beach - and barely had a chance to get settled into our rooms - we were on the move, gathering cameras, sunscreen and bug spray, and climbing aboard our private 4X4 for our first safari!  We had booked the safari directly through the resort, and I couldn't have been happier with our driver and guide, Priyantha.  It was obvious from the start that he loved his job, loved the wildlife and enjoyed creating an experience we wouldn't forget.  Even before we left the resort grounds, we spotted several beautiful birds, a large crocodile, and a Langur monkey bounding down the dirt road ahead of us.

Upon reaching the park entrance, we became even happier with Priyantha as we saw firsthand how young and CRAZY some of the other safari drivers were!  It's amazing there weren't accidents and flipped trucks throughout the park the way some of these guys drove.

As we headed into the park, none of us were really sure what we would see, and we all had different opinions on what would be the most exciting.  For me, I really wanted to see leopards in the wild.  For Sophia, Jennifer, and my parents, I think elephants topped the list.  For Cooper, who knows, but I think he was secretly hoping to see Batman - or better yet, a Quidditch match break out somewhere nearby (he's currently obsessed with Harry Potter).

Luckily, we all got to see what we hoped we would. (except Cooper - no Dynamic Duo, no Hogwarts).  I could write an entire book listing the variety of animals and amazing scenes we saw in the park.  In fact, Sophia filled up a sheet of notepaper during dinner, doing just that.  To name a few, we saw Asian elephants, leopards, monkeys, crocodiles, water buffalo, monitor lizards, spotted deer, wild boar - and one of the highlights, a pack of jackals.  We also saw a large variety of beautiful birds, including bee-eaters, eagles, heron, egrets and peacocks.

Over the course of our two days and nights, and two safaris in Yala National Park, there were clearly three highlights:

The first occurred on the day of our arrival, on our first safari.  With hopes of seeing elephants and leopards, the trip began slowly, spotting crocodiles, monkeys, a variety of birds, and plenty of water buffalo.  We were having fun, but after a while, I think we were all getting a little discouraged.  About that same time, we spotted our first elephant - a pregnant elephant at that - making her way through some dense bushes and trees.  Happy to see her, but disappointed she vanished quickly into the forest, we moved on.  Soon, we came to an opening where we spotted four more elephants, including a baby.  They were only twenty to thirty feet away and they were amazing.  After watching them for a few minutes, Sophia spotted a pack of jackals moving across the open plain, ultimately converging on some sort of carcass.  Like a scene from National Geographic, we watched as they grabbed hold and tore off pieces of meat, running off to enjoy their meal...pretty cool.

The second occurred during our morning safari the following day.  We set out before the sun was up, and arrived in the park just after dawn.  After spotting several elephants the previous day, we all hoped to see more - as well as a leopard or two (and I think Cooper was now trying to spot Hippogriffs and Thestrals....poor kid, no luck again).  We spotted more of the usual suspects on our way into the park, and Priyantha led us to an area where leopards often spend the morning.  Lucky for us, and about another 15 or so people in the 2-3 Jeeps near us, we spotted a beautiful, large leopard as he sunned himself and walked across a large open rock face.  He was maybe 30-40 yards away, but was easily seen against the dark rock.  We watched him for about 2 minutes as he slowly placed one giant paw in front of the other and walked across the rocks, eventually disappearing over the other side.  Apparently, though the leopards often come to this area, spotting one in the open was quite rare, so we felt very fortunate to have been in the right place at the right time.

The final highlight came later that same day, and was the most memorable experience of our visit in Sri Lanka.  After spotting a leopard earlier in the morning, we were all hoping to end our day with another elephant or two.  As with the leopard, Priyantha, masterfully guided us through the park down less travelled paths until we came across another jeep who had spotted a lone elephant in the tree line.  We sat and watched for a minute with the other jeep, before they pulled away.  About a minute later, we were about to drive off ourselves, when I heard something large making its way through the trees nearby.  As we sat in our jeep, alone on the narrow dirt road, ten elephants, including several very young babies, came out of the trees and crossed the road around us.  They came out of nowhere, sometimes together, sometimes a minute or two apart.  Each time one crossed the path and disappeared into the trees on the other side, we'd hear more rustling of branches as another and another came upon us.  One of the adults, as though surprised to see us, stopped, circled, and then came back for a closer look and whiff, trying to figure out what to make of us.  I could have touched his trunk as he sniffed the air only a few feet away.

After that, we knew it would be greedy and ridiculous to think another day in the park would offer a more unique experience.  Instead, we enjoyed some quiet, relaxing time by the pool and on the nearby beach.  On the morning of our final day at Chaaya Wild Yala, we enjoyed a mix of western and Sri Lankan style breakfast and met Ruwan for another half day of travel across the country to our third and final destination in Sri Lanka, Buckingham Place, in the small fishing village of Rekawa...(to be continued)






Saturday, 4 May 2013

Best Friends Forever (Hopefully)

Yesterday I changed my Facebook profile picture to this one taken on our recent spring break trip to Sri Lanka.  I can't stop looking at it and it really got me thinking.  I am writing this because someday, when my children are fighting over who is going to drive the car or the fact that Cooper is dating one of Sophia's friends (sorry Sophia, you're going to lose that one...), I want to pull this up on the internet and show them.  And say, "Look at how much you truly LIKED each other!" 

I'm not talking about love.  Most siblings "love" each other.  You have to, right?  It's just the way it is and how it should be.
But I've always said just because you're born into the same family doesn't mean you automatically like each other.  Shared DNA isn't an instant lifelong bond - it is simply science.  The bond part you have to work at - you need to have common interests and meaningful experiences to really form a relationship.  And maybe just a little bit of luck.  There is no option to choose your family, but you can certainly choose your friends.  So I can't think of anything better than siblings who grow up being best friends as well.

Every time I watch Sophia and Cooper put on a "concert" for us, play some kind of make believe, or splash in a pool with only each other for hours, I just hope they remember it.  Their whole lives they've gotten along beautifully.  They've recently started to engage in a little bickering (usually Sophia being a little bossy and Cooper trying to assert himself), but until now they just haven't fought.  When people ask me for advice on fighting siblings, I honestly have none to give.  I can count on both hands the number of arranged play dates they've had with classmates over the years.  I never had to fill their time with outside friends because they were so content to hang with each other.  It's almost like a weird twin thing, except they are 22 months apart.  (of course they had other friends though!)

Now I'm not an idiot.  The fact that I am putting this in writing guarantees jail time for at least one of them.  You can laugh when Cooper has been sent off to military school and Sophia comes home all "tatted up".   It's not going to be smooth sailing all the time, but someday when they are adults and have their own families, I hope they remember climbing the steps of ancient temples and jumping off of remote island docks holding hands.  But I also want them to remember simple things like cheering for each other in basketball and the excitement of finishing the last Harry Potter book at the same time.
 
So listen up kids - someday when there is a (hopefully brief!) time you inevitably can't stand each other, please know that there was another time, a long time for that matter, where you absolutely adored each other. And when you're adults, please heed my advice and don't stop exploring the world together.  Don't let silly things get in the way of your bond, like trivial arguments or jobs or geography, or even your ego.  Go back to Batu Batu and jump off the dock, visit somewhere we never took you, and please...sometimes invite your old folks to join you.

Don't just be siblings.  Choose friendship.


**Another inspiration was a simple but funny Facetime conversation I had with my brother Scott last night.  Looking forward to July where we can all barbecue, fish, play corn hole (I will beat you) and go midnight crabbing again :-)



Tuesday, 23 April 2013

A python, a cobra, and a monkey on a leash...in Galle

A man walks down the street with a python, a cobra and a monkey on a leash...  No, this isn't the opening line of a bad joke, rather, it was the beginning of our first full day in Galle and the adventure that followed during our week in Sri Lanka....more on that in a few minutes.

Jennifer, the kids, my parents and I had all arrived at the Columbo Airport in Sri Lanka about 20 hours earlier, all of us prepared for the adventure ahead of us.  Surprisingly, in a country that saw the conclusion of a 25+ year civil war in 2009, the airport was modern, immigration was a breeze, duty free was conveniently located, and the only real oddity was the wide selection of kitchen appliances (refrigerators, ovens, etc.) available for sale next to the baggage claim belts.  We had hired a driver for the week (Ruwan), and he was patiently awaiting our arrival just outside of customs.  So far, so good.....honestly, a little boring!

After loading up the van, we were quickly on our way towards the town of Galle.  But before we could enjoy Galle, we had to endure a 75-mile trip that took FIVE HOURS (and this is not the last time we would experience this). The roads were narrow and congested with bicycles, pedestrians, tuk-tuks, cars, delivery trucks and overly packed "express" buses that would fly by our van at twice our speed and slam on the brakes at the next bus stop.  Oh, and I forgot about the random cows that would wander into traffic.  If you've been to India, driving in Sri Lanka is comparable.  If you haven't, I'd describe it as driving with the congestion of the New Jersey Turnpike, the free ranging wildlife of a petting zoo, the pedestrian traffic of NYC and literally no traffic rules.  Exhilarating!

Typical Sri Lanka Traffic

After hours of travelling through small, coastal fishing villages and dingy, over-crowded towns, Ruwan recommended we stop at a small turtle sanctuary along the coast, called the Kosgoda Sea Turtle Hatchery. With Sophia along, this was something we simply could not miss.

We quickly learned that this small turtle sanctuary, along with much of the Southwest Coast of Sri Lanka, had been devastated by the 2004 Tsunami.  Now rebuilt, the sanctuary consists of three sandy plots enclosed in loose netting, and about a dozen small concrete pools.  The three sandy plots each housed several dozen turtle egg nests, created by the sanctuary to protect new eggs brought there by local fishermen.  Three of the pools held one-day old, two-day old and three-day old turtles - while the remaining half dozen pools held older, mostly injured turtles, who could never be returned to the wild.  We were all amazed to learn the sanctuary boasts survival rates up to 10 times better than wild nests and we loved the unique opportunity to handle the adorable little turtles, some of which were just hours old.




After this short break, we were back in the van, dodging express buses, tuk-tuks and cows for the remaining hour to Galle.

Deco on 44
In Galle, we stayed at Deco on 44, a boutique hotel, originally built as the private home of a gem merchant in the 1930's.  It had a restaurant, rooftop patio, small pool and just seven rooms, each named after the seven bastions around Galle Fort.  We loved it.

We spent the first evening checking out the streets and alleys inside the Galle Fort, which was recently recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The town within the fort walls was quite different from the villages just outside and had a distinctive Dutch Colonial feel.  Which makes sense, since the Portuguese first built the fort, but the Dutch fortified it in the 17th century.  There were numerous local shops, small businesses and restaurants along the cobblestone streets, but after our long day of travel, we were all ready to sit down for some dinner and our first "Lion Lager".  We found a great little place called Fortaleza, originally a spice warehouse built around 1600, where we enjoyed our dinner and cold beer in the restaurant's open courtyard.

The next morning, the kids, my parents and I ventured out at about 5:30 AM to catch the sunrise and some amazing views of the Fort lighthouse.  Standing on the fort wall, just a few feet from a 30-foot drop into the Indian Ocean made me a little anxious - even more so since it was dark and the kids were in tow.  Still, it was worth the early wake-up for the views and the kids kept themselves occupied with flashlights.

Later in the morning, we ventured a little further from the hotel, checking out other areas of the fort, including several of the remaining bastions, local churches and the fresh fish and fruit markets, located just outside the fort's walls.  It was on these strolls that we met the man with the python, the cobra and the monkey on a leash.  (I know...finally). 

Galle Fort and Clock Tower

Fish Market
1 of 2 men with "a python, a cobra, and a monkey on a leash"
Strangely, this turned out to be the first of two men with a python, cobra and monkey on a leash - and we joked that this 3-piece value-pack must be available as a mail order deal.  Both men with the "snake-snake-monkey set" were eager to have us hold the python and monkey as they charmed the cobra, and each time I found myself yelling at Cooper and Sophia to keep them from stepping on the cobra basket!  In hindsight, I'm not really sure why I trusted these "professionals" with their snakes and monkeys...but hey, everyone came out alive.

My favorite photo - note Cooper holding the monkey in the background
In the late afternoon, we wrapped up the day with a visit to the Maritime Museum, a Buddhist "Peace Pagoda" and the kids played in the Indian Ocean at Unawatuna Beach.  The museum housed some interesting artifacts found just off the coast of the island and we all enjoyed a little bit of air conditioning.  At the Peace Pagoda, we were educated on the Buddhist religion, as Ruwan talked to us about the significance of the Buddhist Stupa and the many statues.  I think I was "enlightened", so hopefully that will come in handy some day!
Peace Pagoda - Stupa
At Unawatuna Beach, the kids jumped waves as my parents got acquainted with quite possibly the most handsome man in Sri Lanka...or at least he thinks he is.  (He asked them to take his picture.)
Unawatuna Beach
"I don't always drink beer, but when I do, I prefer that my hair remain perfect"
In all, we had a packed schedule and again were ready for a relaxing dinner, which we had at Deco on 44.  Before bed, we all sat outside on the balcony overlooking the streets of Galle and finished what was left of our Lion Lagers from the fridge.  In the morning, we knew we had another few hours on the crazy roads of Sri Lanka on the way to our next stop - Yala National Park... (next update coming soon from Yala)

Tuesday, 16 April 2013

Back to Bali

2009 New Year's Eve
Many of you know my great friend, Whitney.   We have a funny yet slightly embarrassing story about how we met.  We met on a message board on theknot.com while planning our weddings (they were two weeks apart!).  When we finally decided to meet in person at a bar, she brought a friend in case I was a nutjob.  I brought no one, because I am naive and stupidly trusting by nature.  Luckily, she wasn't a nutjob either.  That night was the start of a great friendship.

The reason I mention Whitney is that she is responsible for my latest job.  We both quit our "real" jobs when our eldest children were born - I started my Baby Sophia Gifts business and she wisely chose to enter the new world of blogging.  She has had great success with Mommies With Style, and has subsequently ventured into a second blog, Family Travel Diary.  Yours truly is proud to be an Asian correspondent, along with Jason!
 
So when I was contacted by a PR person about reviewing two new hotels in Bali, I jumped at the chance.  We paid for our own flights (sooo cheap to Indonesia from here) but were set up with rooms for two nights at the Sheraton Bali Kuta and one night at Le Meridien Bali Jimbaran.  Breakfast, two dinners, airport transfers and two spa treatments were also included.  Lucky for us, both hotels were fabulous so I was able to honestly write glowing reviews.

Read the full reviews of the Sheraton Bali Kuta and Le Meridien Bali Jimbaran!

The first time we visited Bali, we pretty much just laid at the pool and the beach.  This time, we decided to actually DO something.   The one thing we did repeat though, was a visit to the Waterbom Water Park in Kuta.  I just cannot emphasize how much I love that place.  For more info, visit our post detailing the first trip. It just has the best slides and is very classy for a water park (I know that sounds strange!).  Cooper, however, was not acting "classy" in this picture.

We also visited the famed "Monkey Forest" in Ubud.  It's official name is the Monkey Forest of Padangtegal, and it's a sacred Balinese Hindu site comprised of a few temples and about 700 long-tailed macaques.  Locals sit at the entrance and sell bananas to naive foreigners, who in turn get seriously accosted by hungry monkeys. 

Here are two videos to give you a glimpse of the monkey forest shenanigans:

1.  Monkey thief!




2.  Beetle Ball - we were mesmerized by what the monkeys were doing with this huge beetle!


After finishing up our tour of the Monkey Forest (and after a somewhat traumatic experience for Cooper involving a monkey and a banana - out of respect for him I will not post that video) we were hungry!  Our driver took us through "downtown" Ubud and eventually found a restaurant, Adi Asri,  that a friend had recommended.  It was a perfect combination of local yet Cooper-proof.  I had chicken curry (so good, I am shockingly a fan of Indian food in general) and Jason had Nasi Goreng, which translates to "fried rice" and is the national food of Indonesia.  It's not as basic as it sounds, and usually includes a meat and fried egg. (I will also not hesitate to order this whenever I see it!)  All in all, it was a great end to our day of touring the area.



The next day we were ready to check out the famed Jimbaran Bay area.  Jimbaran Bay used to be just a tiny fishing village, but is now home to many high end resorts and villas, lending it the nickname "the Beverly Hills of Bali".  

The beach and string of seafood places were adjacent to our hotel, so we skipped on over there and randomly picked a restaurant, the Menega Café, for lunch.  At these restaurants, you just pick your fresh seafood from a huge display, and they grill it right then and there on a bed of coconut husks.  We chose lobster, red snapper and prawns.  We added some french fries for the Coops and Bintang for the adults for a pretty darn perfect meal.  I will let the pictures speak for themselves!  (The price in USD for the seafood meal for two in the menu picture is $45 total - check out what you get for that!)

 

 


So after a very busy yet fun three days, we were forced to go home.  It's not too hard to go home though, when your view is still palm trees, and it's warm and sunny most of the time (it is definitely warm ALL of the time!).  As with everywhere else, we hope to return, but even if we don't, we have plenty of great memories to always remember Bali!

Next up - Sri Lanka!