Three "g'days" on the Great Ocean Road

After enjoying a few days in Sydney, we made the short flight to Melbourne, ready to enjoy the holidays with great friends, Deb and John Voger.  Deb, John and their two boys (Josh and Ryan) were neighbors of ours in West Chester, PA for about 4 years (circa 2002 - 2006).  At that time, we often enjoyed an afternoon or evening on one another's deck with a glass of wine or a beer (Jen:  Seriously..."A" glass of wine or beer?  What alternate universe were you living in?), and the kids always enjoyed playing together.  With that in mind, we were excited to see our friends who graciously welcomed us into their home to spend Christmas and New Year's with their family.

Deb and Jennifer in 2006 - Oh the memories...

Truth is, our visit to Melbourne would have been complete had we spent our time sitting on the Voger's back patio, catching up on each other's lives (see forthcoming post from Jennifer for more on that part of our visit).  But, Australia is obviously more than half a world away from the east coast of the US, and who knows when or if I'll have another chance to experience the "Great Ocean Road" (GOR) and cross it off my bucket list.  So, after a few days visiting with the Vogers, we packed up the car and headed Southwest toward the Great Ocean Road and the beautiful coastline.

I've read that you can make the entire drive from Melbourne to Port Campbell (home of the famed 12 Apostles) and back in a single day.  However, I viewed such guidance the same as I do the stories I read about seeing "everything in Singapore"  in 3 days... a load of you know what.  Besides, the thought of driving in the dark along the rocky coastline of Southern Australia (on the wrong side of the road - see Right-side driving and sights around Sydney ) seemed like a REALLY bad idea.  (Jen:  Deb can attest to the fact that the day before we left I was having a panic attack thinking about Jason driving this road.  I thought we were going to die.)

My comfort with driving had improved tremendously since the excitement in Sydney, but we decided to book two nights at a great little place in Apollo Bay so we could take our time and enjoy the GOR safely.  Leaving Melbourne mid-morning, we planned to stop a few places along the way to check out the sights and have a lunch along the beach before arriving in Apollo Bay...and we did just that.

View from Surf Beach in Torquay

Our first stop was in Torquay, a coastal town known for great surf beaches and tons of surf shops.  There were plenty of both, but we didn't stay very long because we got a first glimpse of the brilliant sandstone cliffs further down the coast and decided the scenery ahead of us would be more spectacular.  Over the course of the next two hours we stopped several times to snap a few pictures and take in the scenery, which seemed to get more beautiful around every sharp turn along the coast.  We skipped right through Angelsea, which looked like a great little beach town, and made our next stop in Lorne.

Sophia posing in Lorne

After navigating the 400th "roundabout / traffic circle / death spiral" we had encountered since arriving in Australia, I found a place to park - I'm fairly sure, illegally.  (Jen:  I'm pretty sure the only thing that Australia and New Jersey have in common are traffic circles.  And tattoos.)  The small beach town of Lorne was a perfect setting for lunch and we found something for everyone (REAL fish and chips from the Lorne Fish and Chips for Sophia and I, and breakfast food for Jennifer and Cooper.  A side note: the guy who took our order at Lorne Fish and Chips had just recently moved to Australia - from his hometown in North Wales, PA...about 15 minutes from where I grew up.  Talk about a small world!)

After lunch, we hopped back in the car - next stop Apollo Bay!  Well, that was the plan, anyway.  Truth is we stopped another 4-5 times to snap a few more pictures along the coast before reaching our "home" for the next few days - the Rayville Boathouses in Apollo Bay.

We were a little late in booking a hotel along the GOR, but were very pleased with the Rayville Boathouses.  It's a small, family run outfit, with about a dozen small "cabins" located just off the GOR, and only a block from the ocean in either direction.  We had a two bedroom unit with a kitchen, dining area and family room.  The family room had a small wood-burning stove, which we expected to go unused during summer in Australia...but we were glad to have it, and started a fire each evening for warmth as well as atmosphere.  After living in Singapore for 10 months, the idea of needing and having a warm fire was wonderful! (Jen:  We actually had a fire each morning too, to warm up the place.  And one morning, we turned on the TV and an NFL game was on!  It made me really miss our winter Sunday Funday tradition with the Pattersons and Prestiannes back in Kennett Square.)


We arrived mid-afternoon, so we had plenty of time to take a look around town and check out the beach.   The kids ventured about ankle deep in the ocean before deeming it too cold to go any further...Jennifer and I both agreed.  I never expected this to be the case, but it makes sense that the water is so cold when you consider the only thing south of Apollo Bay is Antarctica!  After warming up by the fire in our room, we got ready for dinner at Chris's Beacon Point restaurant.  This was a recommendation from friends in Singapore, the Wihmann's, who view Apollo Bay their dream destination for retirement.  The food was good and the view of Apollo Bay from the mountain was amazing.

The next morning, we climbed back into the car, loaded with a few drinks, snacks and the warmest clothes we had packed.  (Mom and Dad, you would have been appalled at how few things we packed in the car for a full day of driving and sightseeing.  Probably a quarter of what you would have brought along....but then again, I could have eaten a few more crackers along the way had I only brought them.)  After only about 35 minutes, we reached the first stop of our drive - the Cape Otway Lighthouse.

Located at the very southern tip of the GOR, the Cape Otway Lighthouse was the second lighthouse ever built on mainland Australia, and today is the oldest remaining lighthouse in the country.  While the clifftop lighthouse and surrounding area was beautiful, the drive in (about 3 mile drive from the GOR) was probably the highlight.  We had read that you were likely to see Koalas along the way, but never expected what we saw.  About one mile in, Jennifer spotted 8-10 Kangaroos bounding through a field.  We stopped the car a little further along, hoping they'd hop right by us.  Sure enough, they hopped through the field, eventually coming only 40-50 feet away before hopping off again.

No more than a half mile further, several cars were stopped along the road, and passengers were walking around, necks craned, looking and snapping pictures of the Eucalyptus trees above.  We stopped, expecting to see a few Koalas....but there were literally dozens - maybe a hundred in total perched in trees for the next 1/2 mile or so.  It was really amazing to see so many, so close, and so active!  After taking a ridiculous number of pictures (Jen:  Ahhhh, that would be you.  I just took a few, QUALITY ones.  There is a reason your kids call you Ed, Junior.), we continued on to the Cape Otway Lighthouse itself.

We arrived at the right time, with only a few other visitors anywhere in sight.  After parking and paying admission, we came across a sign you don't typically see in the states.  "Warning!  Snakes are active at this time of year".  Active!  What the hell does that mean?  We cautiously made our way up the dirt trail to the lighthouse, half relieved/half disappointed not to come across a Black Adder along the way.....ok - mostly relieved.

We climbed the lighthouse, checked out the WWII radar station, and got the kids a snack at the cafe (I highly recommend the milkshakes!)  On our way out, we realized how glad we were to arrive when we did.  The gift shop and registration desk were packed, as was the parking lot.  As we drove back towards the GOR we stopped a couple more times, spotting a Wallaby (only 2 feet off the road) and dozens more Koalas - a few with babies.

Cape Otway Lighthouse (Jen: photo credit to me because
that's a damn good picture!)

Milkshakes!

One of many Koalas along the road

Back on the GOR, we continued toward Port Campbell and all the sights we wanted to see along the way.  Gibson's Steps came first, offering a great view from the beach - one of only a few spots in the area where you can get to the beach itself (I think).  Of all the spots we stopped along the GOR, this was the first where there was actually a "parking lot" vs. a slightly larger shoulder.  About two minutes further up the road, we came to the Twelve Apostles - here, the parking lot, welcome center, cafe, etc. are all actually on the opposite side of the road (away from the ocean).  It was also very obvious that safety was of utmost importance.  Visitors still get a great view of the ocean and cliffs, but fences and barriers make it nearly impossible to fall or get hurt...which was nice considering the wind and number of people in the area.

Twelve Apostles

FREEZING!

As beautiful and striking as the Twelve Aspostles are, a little further up the road we visited two more amazing spots...the aptly named "Arch" and "London Bridge".  At both locations, the ocean has torn a hole in the sandstone, leaving an open arch through which the ocean flows.  London Bridge was by far Cooper's favorite, after we showed him pictures and told him how one of the two original arches had collapsed in the 1990's.  After seeing it ourselves, it brought to life how scary that whole ordeal must have been.

Cooper posing by London Bridge (now London Arch)  Until
approx. 20 years ago it was a complete bridge.  When it collapsed,
people were stranded on the outer part and had to be rescued by helicopter!

At this point, we were all pretty hungry, actually a little chilly, (Jen:  A little?  My Singapore climatized body thought we were in Fargo in January) and had seen some amazing views.  We headed to Port Campbell for lunch and some shopping (Jen:  I had to buy another sweatshirt, that's how cold I was).  Port Campbell is a nice, quiet little town, with a bunch of restaurants and shops.  We sat down at the Twelve Rocks Cafe and Beach Bar.  (I recommend the steak sandwich - Scotch filet steak, egg, cheese, lettuce, tomato, bbq sauce, mayo w/chips).  A highlight of this lunch stop in Port Campbell, however, came from Cooper.  Walking through a narrow shop, we squeezed by other visitors, excusing ourselves along the way...behind us, as polite as could be, Cooper said "Excuse me, mate" in his best Australian accent.  Good on ya, Cooper!

Our last stop, before heading back to Apollo Bay for the night, was the Loch Ard Gorge.  Here again, we were able to get to the beach and the view was amazing.   There's only so much to say about each of these natural wonders.  They are amazingly beautiful sights and I found myself asking "why is it some of the sandstone washed away, while in other areas it was left behind?"  I'm sure Sophia would be able to educate me, but I probably wouldn't understand.  In any event, hopefully the pictures give you a sense of the beauty.

Once back in Apollo Bay (after a two-hour drive back from Port Campbell), we had dinner at Chill @ Apollo Bay, a tiny tapas restaurant about a block from the beach.  Eventually, we made it to bed...which was very welcome after the long day.

The next day, we headed to the small marina and checked out the beach at Apollo Bay.  It was a nice way to wrap up our stay in this part of Australia and the kids really enjoyed searching the tidal pools for shells, crabs, etc.  On the way out of town, headed back to Melbourne, we made one last stop at a small market set up on the grass lawn just off of the beach.  Here, local artists, photographers, candle makers, etc. were selling all kinds of items.  We found a great serving plate - a perfect souvenir from our visit on the Great Ocean Road.

Less then 30 minutes later, the kids were asleep and Jennifer and I had a very quiet drive back to Melbourne (Jen:  I finally was not terrified of his driving).  Pulling into the driveway at the Vogers, the kids woke up, ready to play with their friends again.  For Jennifer and I, we were just happy to be off the road - and ready for a beer on the back patio with our friends.

Right-Side Driving and the Sights Around Sydney

Since our children had three weeks off for the Christmas holiday, we chose to visit Australia, one of the farthest Asia/Pacific destinations from Singapore.  As we boarded our Qantas Sydney-bound flight at Changi airport, I was pleased to see they also offered the familiar "personal entertainment display" on the back of every seat.  I wasn't planning to watch much TV myself, but my son has become accustomed to his personal in-flight entertainment...boy is he in for a surprise when we return to domestic US travel!  As are the adults now that I remember that cocktails are not free...

Ready to board

But for now, In-Flight Golf, Scooby Doo and Madagascar 3 make these long flights a breeze for Cooper and Sophia.  They've certainly been lucky to travel a good bit in the course of their young life, but it's still surprising just how comfortable they have become with the routine associated with long-haul international travel.  The fact that they never complain about the travel time, cramped seats etc. blows my mind - though truth be told, both make it very obvious they don't like the in-flight food....but who does? (Jennifer's note:  I do!  I have liked almost every entree on international flights!)

Upon arriving in Sydney, a different sort of travel challenge awaited us... me, driving on the left hand side of the road!  Though I've lived in Singapore for nearly 10 months, I had yet to get behind the right side steering wheel of a car.  (unless you count the numerous times I've jumped in the right side front seat of a friend's car expecting it to be the passenger seat.)

The Harbour Bridge

About 20 minutes later, I had jumped three curbs, nearly ran down multiple pedestrians and clipped a bus with the passenger mirror (I'm still convinced this last one was Sophia's and Jennifer's imagination).  We also got a little lost en route ....meaning, we crossed the Sydney Harbour Bridge (twice) and wound up in the Opera House parking lot without even realizing it.  Eventually we made it to our rented apartment on Central Avenue in Manly, where I was more than happy to park the car for several days before getting back behind the wheel again.

Jennifer's note:  I must interject.  He clipped a bus - really, he did.  I heard and felt it but wasn't going to mention it to him because he was so freaked out about how horribly he was driving.  Also, I couldn't waste my breath due to needing to scream, "MOVE OVER" at a moment's notice.  Then, about 30 minutes later, Sophia decides to blurt out, "Dad, you know you hit a bus back there, right?"  Ha ha ha ha. Busted!  I just hope the new gray hair I had to pluck out doesn't grow back. 

Our home for the next few days was small, but offered plenty of room for the four of us, including a living room, kitchen, bedroom, bath and a small patio with amazing views of Manly Beach.  There was also a roof-top patio with plunge pool.  Aside from the lack of wi-fi, it was perfect (...and actually, it was kind of nice to be forced to "disconnect" for a few days).

Our view of Manly from the patio

Manly Beach

Our view at night

After taking an overnight flight from Singapore, we were happy to just enjoy the beach our first day in Australia.  Thankfully, it was literally steps away from our rented apartment.  Fortunately, our visit was for 16 days, so we didn't feel an instant need to sight see.

FREEZING cold Manly Beach water

Eventually, we began to explore Manly and it was pretty much what I expected it to be.  A very casual atmosphere, a ton of surf shops, bars and restaurants, and lots of blonde hair.  At the beach, the kids enjoyed the *freezing* water while Jennifer and I enjoyed the warm sun and sand.  There were a lot of people on the beach, but considering we were visiting during the "summer holiday", it was nothing compared to the crowds that I've become accustomed to on the east coast of the US.  Cooper and I also took a short walk and found some local wildlife as well as several other beautiful beaches just around the corner.

Over the course of the next few days, we really got to know Manly...at least as much as you can in a short visit.  We found a favorite spot for breakfast (and free wi-fi), with good, spicy bloody marys, as well as a small local bakery for those mornings when we didn't have time to sit down and eat.  We tried multiple restaurants for lunch and dinner - some we really enjoyed (The Manly Grill), another we really didn't (Watervue)...and of course the kids were happy to find several ice cream shops for snacks before we headed back to the apartment and bedtime.

Sunset in Manly Cove

A favorite spot for us was the Manly wharf.  There were two restaurants we really enjoyed at the wharf.  One was a very casual place called the Manly Wharf Hotel (it's not a hotel).  I think it's known as "the Wharfie" around town.  It's situated directly on the wharf with great views of Manly Cove and seems to be a very popular spot for locals to grab a drink or bite to eat after getting off the inbound ferry from Sydney.  Here is where Jennifer and I first became familiar with Australia's "do it yourself" way of ordering food and drinks - whereby you place your food and drink orders at the bar, collect a tiny table flag, then take your seat and wait for your order to be brought to you.  No waiters or waitresses to tip (you don't tip in Australia regardless) and when you're done eating, no waiting for your bill.  It was actually very convenient!

The Wharf dock outside the Bavarian Bier Cafe

The second place we really enjoyed was the Bavarian Bier Cafe.  It offered a great selection of beer, as you'd expect - but what we liked most was its location on the wharf, right next to the swimming beach.  It was the perfect spot for Jennifer and I to sit and have a beer after a long day of sightseeing, while the kids played on the beach and jumped from the dock into Manly Cove only a few steps away.  The fact that every bartender in the place was 6'2" or taller and looked like an Abercrombie model probably had something to do with why Jennifer liked it as well...whatever, the beer was good, so what do I care? (Jennifer's note:  well, the drool on the table was probably annoying.)

View from Bavarian Bier Cafe

Jennifer ate fish & chips everywhere

Of course, we did leave Manly now and then.  After all, we didn't fly all this way to sit on the beach, drink beer, and ogle bartenders - the city of Sydney awaited only a short ferry ride away.  (Jennifer's note:  speak for yourself.)  We spent the better part of three full days in Sydney itself - though we could have spent much more time exploring everything in and around the city.  (I guess we'll have go back....I hope)  The highlights, in my opinion, were the Coffee Cruise, the Taronga Zoo and simply walking around Circular Quay and other parts of Sydney Harbour.

The Coffee Cruise (offered by Captain Cook Cruises) was recommended by one of our American friends in Singapore (thank you Vander Vennets!).  They lived in Sydney for a while and had this among their list of "must dos".  Not one to turn down advice of friends, we hopped on board the Coffee Cruise, which launched from Circular Quay.  Departing at 10:00 am, the cruise offers coffee, tea, juices, etc. and a small selection of pastries - and takes passengers for a two hour tour around Sydney Harbour.  It's a great way to see most of the key attractions in the harbour and hear some history, but the main attraction is the pithy commentary from the tour guide who both educates and entertains throughout the journey.

View of Sydney from the zoo (Sophia's in the pink hat)

No surprise to most of you, the Taronga Zoo was a must see for us.  Our animal lover, Sophia, would have it no other way.  Luckily, we all typically enjoy a day at the zoo and our day at the Taronga Zoo in Sydney was no exception.  To start the day, Jennifer and the kids reluctantly joined me in the car for another white knuckle drive through Sydney.  Admit it Jennifer, I was significantly better this time around.  (J: marginally)  We were met at the zoo by a co-worker of mine, who graciously gave us the complimentary SAP Corporate zoo pass...saving us more than $130.  (the Taronga Zoo is expensive! Twice as expensive as the Singapore Zoo).  The zoo housed the usual characters:  giraffes, lions, elephants, monkeys etc. as well as special "local" exhibits full of snakes, kangaroos, wallabies and koalas.  What made it a truly unique experience was the view of the Sydney Harbour, Opera House, Harbour Bridge and city in the background.  It's not every day you see mountain goats climbing on rock formations with that view in the background.

Cooper was so amused that a sea lion was named Cooper!

View of Opera House from the Harbour Bridge

While the views of Sydney from the cruise and zoo were amazing, I have to say my favorite parts of our visit in Sydney were our walks around the Harbour and surrounding streets.  We had beautiful weather - not always bright sunshine, but that was actually nice because it offered cooler temperatures than what I've experienced in the past 10 months.  It made long walks more comfortable and allowed us to enjoy the city without sweating to death (i.e. every day in Singapore).  Circular Quay (a quick ferry ride away from Manly) was always our starting point, from which we ventured out and about.  We visited the Opera House and took the obligatory photos of the kids on the steps (of course).  SPOILER ALERT - the Opera House is actually not a flat white as it appears in photographs.  It's actually more of a grey color with a waffle-like pattern on the "sails". 

Australian Heritage Hotel

After visiting the opera house and having lunch in its shadow, we headed towards the Botanic Gardens...but never made it.  Instead, a friendly Aussie gentlemen stopped us and encouraged us to walk the mile or so from Circular Quay to the Harbour Bridge where we could walk to the middle and get a great view of the city.  Again, not one to turn down friendly advice, we made the walk - and it was well worth it.  In addition to the view from the bridge, it took us directly through an area called "the Rocks"- so named because the original buildings (constructed shortly after colonization in the 1780's) were made largely of local sandstone.  The area was historically a slum, often frequented by sailors and prostitutes, but these days it's a quaint tourist area full of shops, restaurants, bars and expensive real estate with prohibitive conservation restrictions. Here we found a great little restaurant at the Australian Heritage Hotel where we could sit outside with a fantastic view of the Harbour Bridge.

After five days in Manly and Sydney, it was time to head to Melbourne to celebrate the holidays with our friends, the Vogers.  We were all very anxious to see our old neighbors, but were also a little sad to leave Manly and Sydney behind.  In fact, Jennifer and the kids all shed tears as we left the apartment in Manly and packed our things in the car...but in hindsight, maybe they were just afraid to get back in the car with me for another (J: terrifying) ride through Sydney and to the airport.  No problem.  By the time we got on the road toward the Sydney airport, I had figured out the whole right side driving thing...just in time to take on the winding, clifftop drive down the Great Ocean Road that awaited us in Melbourne!

Cambodia Day 4: Tonle Sap, Phnom Krom, and a return to reality

The alarm sounding off at 6:30 am was significantly more annoying than it was just 24 hours before.  After a second full day of sightseeing, we were exhausted and reluctant to get out of bed - but we knew a very interesting day lay before us.

Rhat and our breakfast orders were waiting for us when we finally emerged from the room.  All you loyal readers by now know that Tuna was also awaiting us!  After breakfast, we put our tourist hats back on and met Savonn in the hotel driveway for our drive to Tonle Sap, the famed floating village.


Tonle Sap

Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, ranging in size from about 3,000 square km in the dry season to upwards of 15,000 square km during the monsoon season, when water from the Mekong river is pushed into the lake.  In the dry season, Tonle Sap averages about four feet deep, but in monsoon season it can get as deep as 30 feet, flooding fields and forests in all directions.

Our visit in November was toward the beginning of the dry season and the water level in the lake and surrounding fields was relatively low...but from the look of things, you wouldn't necessarily know it.  The drive from Siem Reap took us through several villages and along small rivers where houses are clearly built to avoid flooding.  When I say, "built to avoid flooding", I mean they are built several feet above the water on tiny stilts that appear hardly capable of bearing the weight of the structure.

Upon reaching the lake, we noticed in-process construction on a large luxury resort overlooking the docks.  The modern engineering and sturdy materials of the resort were in stark contrast to the primitive, fragile wood and metal framed homes that sit along the lake's edge only a few hundred yards away.  Many of the homes are 25- 35 feet above the current water level, perched on bamboo, wood and in very few places, concrete stilts.  Most had loose wood planks, balanced unevenly, from the front door to the roadway nearby.  Apparently a fear of heights and poor balance have been eliminated from the population that live there.

Once at the lake, Savonn escorted us through a small "boat terminal" and directly to a waiting boat and captain who would take us for a tour.  The boat could have handled about ten passengers, but we pushed off from the dock with only the five of us and the captain on board.  The water was a murky, "coffee with 2 cream", brown and relatively calm for such a large body of water. 

Shortly after leaving the dock, a small boat sped towards us.  Like a Somali pirate, but far less dangerous, the smaller and faster boat caught up to us and a young girl deftly stepped from the moving boat onto the back of ours and peddled snacks and drinks.  After we refused, she quickly stepped back onto the smaller boat, where her father waited, and the two shot off in another direction toward a boat full of tourists.  So many places we visited we were approached by children selling things.  As difficult as it was to refuse, it is important to in most cases.  Many of these children are forced, some by non-family members, to make a living like this.  Much of the money they receive doesn't even go to them.  It is a sad, sad situation, and trust me, very difficult to turn your back on.

A few minutes later, we approached one of the many floating villages on Tonle Sap.  This particular village was home to approximately 500 residents, all of whom live in small, floating homes anchored to the bushes and trees that poke through the water's surface.  Most are fishermen, but as in any town, there are people making a living in other ways.  For example the village had a floating school house, a floating Buddhist temple and there were several people going from boat house to boat house selling produce and other necessities.

As our boat passed by these "homes", children could be seen playing on the hard wooden floor of the boats or rocking in hammocks that hung inside and outside the structures.  Others bathed in the lake water, and we saw one boy just lean over and drink directly from the lake (not a good idea but this is how they live).  There were several boats where men and women sat inside a netted structure, smacking small fish as they jumped all around them - we were told they were making fish paste.  Other men had clearly just returned from fishing with large buckets full of the tiny fish (regular fishing season hadn't started yet - the law only allows fishing half the year to allow the fish to reproduce the other half).  The women we saw were mostly tending to children, or rowing small boats around the lake full of supplies.

As Savonn described it, the "rich" people have gas powered generators so they can power small TVs for short periods of time, while most others either run off of battery power or have no electricity at all.  We saw very few TV's, but I was surprised to see a few families gathered around a laptop watching and laughing at something.

As we approached the floating restaurant and gift shop, several young children approached our boat - floating in what appeared to be large silver keg buckets.  Around their necks or simply laying in the bottom of the bucket where the children sat, were large snakes that had been raised by the children and their families as a source of income.  Take a photo - make a donation.  One boy, pictured below, had a python 6+ feet in length around his neck.  Jennifer immediately broke out in hives and slowly walked backward, almost falling off the side of the boat.  Now THAT would have been an awesome end to this vacation!

The other *crazy* part of the floating restaurant was the crocodile farm.  Built under the boat with barriers was a pen holding probably 30-50 crocodiles caught in the river as babies and raised in captivity.  We just stared down into the pen in complete awe of these creatures that looked like statues but who would gladly chomp us into pieces if we leaned just a litle too far over the railing.

The entire scene was very surreal, and more than once Jennifer and I looked at each other incredulously and speculated as to how we got here.  The people were all very friendly, seemingly not concerned about yet another group of tourists gawking at their homes and their way of life, but it seemed impossible to believe people still live this way. 

Eventually, we made our way back to the boat dock, which now seemed far more civilized than just an hour before.  During the entire boat ride back, and upon reaching the dock, I couldn't help but notice just how many people were taking pictures of us, and especially the kids.  We were the unwitting subject of the stereotypical Asian tourist.  It was obvious that Caucasian children, in particular, are a rare sight.  Sophia and Cooper's blonde hair and blue eyes surely were interesting to so many of the people we saw along the way.

Temple at Phnom Krom

Revived by the cold aircon in the car, we started toward the final stop of our adventure, Phnom Krom.  Phnom Krom is a 140 meter high hill a short distance from Tonle Sap.  To get there, we climbed a few hundred steps and walked at least 1/2 mile up a steep winding road.  Once at the top, we saw an amazing temple built in the 9th century to honor the Hindu deities of Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma.  The temple is far smaller then the others we had seen in Siem Reap, but the fact it was built on top of this hill, IN THE 9TH CENTURY was amazing. 

"Dry Season" at Tonle Sap

The view was spectacular as well, offering a view of Siem Reap from one vantage point - and a view over the small village and Tonle Sap lake from another.  From here, the  massive size of the lake was apparent, as was the unthinkable impact of the seasonal flooding.  I found myself wondering why so many people choose to put themselves in potential danger by living in a flood zone when a perfectly good, dry hill was only a short distance away.  Then I realized it was a stupid thought when 80% of the people who live there make a living fishing in the lake and the other 20% make their living related to something in or around the water.

After climbing back down what must have been a thousand steps, we headed back toward Siem Reap for one last lunch with Savonn, a final stop at Journeys Within, and then the drive to the Siem Reap airport.  At lunch, Savonn shared more stories about his family and children, and we enjoyed a few more Angkor beers.  Upon returning to Journeys Within, we said one last goodbye to Rhat, Alex, and other members of the JW staff...and of course Sophia and Cooper had a tearful goodbye with Tuna, the house dog.  As we pulled out of the JW driveway, the staff members all stood waving, and did not stop until we were out of sight.  Jennifer cried - OF COURSE.  Savonn made the drive to the airport with us, and saw us off to the airport entrance.

So after about 72 hours, 8 temples, 2 boat rides and countless Angkor beers, our visit to Cambodia came to an end.  We said a final farewell to Savonn, promising to keep in touch via Facebook and offering to provide a review for him on TripAdvisor.  We also made a note to send a supply of Frontline to Journeys Within to help Tuna stay healthy and avoid the Cambodian tics.  Most importantly, on this Thanksgiving weekend, we made a promise to ourselves to remember the children and families of Tonle Sap and the other small villages of Cambodia, and to never forget just how fortunate we are to have been born in the United States.

Here are some ways you can help the children and adults of Cambodia:

Journeys Within Our Community
Caring for Cambodia

Cambodia Day 3: Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm and More

Day three, like day two, began with breakfast at JW.  We were all a little more tired than the day before, but that's what 100 degree heat and ten miles of walking and stair climbing will do, when you're used to the comfort of Singapore's exceptionally convenient, air-conditioned public transportation system.  Nonetheless, we were all out of bed early and eager to explore more temples.

Tuna, the resident dog, was waiting in her usual spot just outside the glass doors to the small restaurant.  She barely moved when Jennifer and I stepped over her to go inside, and moved just enough to wag her tail as Sophia and Cooper greeted her.  Perhaps she had a rough night on the town?

After breakfast, we met Savonn at the hotel's driveway and headed toward our first stop of the day, Angkor Thom. 

Angkor Thom was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer empire, built in the late twelfth century by King Jayavarman VII.  Like Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom is massive, covering an area of over 9 km².  It is completely surrounded by a man-made moat and giant sandstone wall.  Within the wall surrounding this ancient Khmer city, there are several structures and multiple temples, at the exact center of which is the Bayon Temple.

The Bayon Temple is one of the most recognizable in due to the enormous stone faces found on every tower of the temple.  Savonn provided us with some history of the temple and we briefly viewed the structure from outside before walking a few steps away to meet a new friend, Sambo.

Sambo was the Asian elephant we would ride around the outside of the Bayon Temple to see the structure from the same vantage point as the French explorers who rediscovered the

temples in the mid 1860's.  The ride was bumpy, but a lot of fun, and I think there were as many pictures taken of us during the ride as we took of the temples.

Upon dismounting, Sophia and Cooper both fed Sambo a pineapple, which he quickly gobbled up, and we made our way inside the Bayon temple for a closer look.  The Bayon Temple, like most others we saw, is covered with reliefs depicting various Khmer legends and epic battles.  But the prominent feature of the temple is the multitude of large faces that adorn each of the towers.  What was most amazing was the consistency of each face and how much they looked alike.  Just remarkable considering how they must have been made nearly a thousand years ago. 

After exploring the Bayon Temple, we moved on to a neighboring temple called Phimeanakas.  This temple was built about 200 years earlier than the Bayon Temple and resembled a Mayan pyramid.  Sophia, Cooper and I climbed the steep steps to the top, which was much easier than coming back down.  Once on top, however, we were greeted by a Cambodian woman who smiled at the kids, offered them incense, and said a small prayer for our family...I think.  So I've got that going for me...which is nice.

After Phimeanakas, we visited several other spots within Angkor Thom, including the Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of the Elephants.  The former is believed to be a temple for the dead, and was named after King Yasovarman who was believed to be a Leper. The Terrace of the Elephants is a large multi-tiered area where the King would observe his army, consisting of many elephants.  It is also an area where he would greet his victorious warriors as they returned to Angkor Thom through the main gates.

Cooper called this an "ancient lego"

At this point in the day, the hot sun was wearing on all of us, and we were eager to head to lunch.  Savonn recommended a local restaurant run by his friend, called The Angkor Flower.  Upon pulling into the parking lot, the staff (who had been relaxing in hammocks outside) greeted us with a smile and welcomed us inside.  We were the first guests for lunch, but were soon joined by another 40 or so temple visitors.  I ordered Amok Fish (a local favorite), Jennifer had a delicious plate of fried noodles, and the kids ate some fried stuff - the most western of what was available on the menu.  We are working on their palates, but it is a slow and torturous process.

We invited Savonn to join us for lunch, which by his reaction, was not expected.  He was happy to eat with us and we had a very interesting conversation about his family, his life and his pride in his country and people.  A highlight for me was the discussion we had about Angkor Beer, Cambodia Beer and Black Panther Beer.  The latter he described as "the kind of beer you take when your friend tells you he killed a snake and invites you to dinner".  We loved the casual conversation and opportunity to better understand life outside the usual tourist experience.  Our pictures, along with our afternoon in the village and conversations with Savonn are clearly our favorite souvenirs from this trip. 

After lunch, we were re-energized and managed two more temple visits before heading back to Journey's Within.  The first was Ta Prohm, which is one of the most well known due to its role in some of the filming of Tomb Raider.  We saw no Lara Croft, but Sophia and Cooper filled in with plenty of climbing and jumping among the rubble. 

Ta Prohm was built in the late 12th and early 13th centuries as a Buddhist monastery and university.  It was recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 1992, and has become one of the most famous and visited temples in Siem Reap due to the trees growing in, around, and literally on the temple walls.  As a result of these trees, the temple has received limited restoration, as removing the trees will cause the temple to crumble. 

After exploring Ta Prohm, we were exhausted, but Sophia was eager to visit "just one more" before heading back to the pool, Tuna, and a cold Angkor Beer.  This last temple of the day was Banteay Srei.  Built in the 10th century, Banteay Srei was considerably smaller than the other temples we visited, but was just as beautiful, and decorated with reliefs and carvings on almost every stone wall.  Evidence of our exhaustion, we took far less photos of what many consider the "jewel of Khmer", than we did at the other temples, but hopefully these give you a taste of what we experience there.

At this point, we stumbled to the cool air, ice-cold wet towels, and bottles of near freezing water that awaited us at the car.  Luckily, the ride home was pretty quick, and we relaxed the remainder of the afternoon by the pool.

Later that evening, we texted Moeng (our friendly local tuk tuk driver) to pick us up for dinner, and we headed to a small, out of the way Italian restaurant, L'Oasi, where we enjoyed one final dinner in Siem Reap.  The food was great, but the highlight of the evening was eavesdropping on a pair of American and French archaeologists having an impassioned discussion about the best way to approach restoration of a nearby temple.  It was fascinating to watch them rifle through pages of photos, diagrams and blueprints as they discussed differing points of view and techniques.  It sure made my job seem awfully boring!

After a short ride to town, we made arrangements for Moeng to pick us up one last time, and we headed to the Old Market for some final shopping.  We didn't last real long, but found some great souvenirs among the vendors at the market before heading back to Journeys Within for one last night before a visit to Tonle Sap, the floating village, and our final temple visit at Phnom Krom.

Stay tuned for day four....our final day in Cambodia.