Bali Bali Bo-Bali

Note:  I am now the Asia Correspondent for a new travel blog, Family Travel Diary.  Check it out!  Also, this post was a collaboration between me and Jason. 

People will tell you that Singapore is small and that you'll be eager to travel the rest of Asia out of sheer necessity, because it only takes you a few months to see all of Singapore.  After three months,  Jason doesn't find this to be the case and still thoroughly enjoys exploring the various towns, parks, etc. of Singapore.

All the same, we have a relatively limited time here in Southeast Asia, and decided we better start exploring the rest of the region as early as possible.  As a result, our first trip out of Singapore came a month after the kids and I arrived.  We chose Bali, Indonesia, because we only had time for a short trip and we wanted to ease the kids into international travel before we started to explore some more (comparatively) exotic locations. It is only a 2-hour plane ride from Singapore to Bali (Densapar), which is like a blink of an eye after the 20-hour flight from New York to Singapore.  Cooper even told me he liked the long flights.  (I told him he needed to see a doctor.)

Sophia and Cooper at the Changi (Sin) Airport

After some minor confusion, and a near Locked Up Abroad experience at the Changi airport (KLM failed to provide a required departure stamp on our boarding passes, which airport security didn't find humor in) we were on our way.  When we landed, all I could think of was, "Where the hell am I?"  The airport was honestly not very nice, and it was crazy crowded.  However, the Visa-on-Arrival process was completely painless and we were quickly on our way to find our name on a driver placard outside the arrival area.  In a sea of drivers we found ours and he led us to the pick-up area...where complete CHAOS ensued. 

Hard to see, but these are the motorbikes at the airport

Surrounded by friendly Aussies, also enjoying their holiday in Bali, we witnessed a melee of cars, vans, and motorbikes all jumbled together, each trying to drop off or pick up passengers.  Bali is clearly in need of a new, more modern airport (which is under construction) - and at least one traffic engineer - to sort out the congestion and complete insanity of the arrivals and departure process.  Many cars just pulled up, put on their parking lights, and the driver hopped out to go look for their passengers...all the while leaving 6-8 cars stuck behind them with nowhere to go.  Somehow, our driver made his way to us, and masterfully picked the correct lane to get around this mess and leave the airport.  It took only about 15 minutes for him to collect us and our baggage and get us on our way.

Our driver, Jordan, was super nice, very chatty, and stopped at the local Circle K so we could get some beers.  (And some Mad Dog and Boone's Farm.  Oh wait...that was what we got from the Circle K at Wake Forest.  Good times.)  Instead, we picked up a couple sodas, Oreos, and Pringles (for the kids), and a mixed 6-pack of San Miguel Lite and Bintang (for the adults).  Oh - and Jason picked up ice cream for himself and Sophia.  He is addicted to those new "Magnum" ice cream bars.

Let me talk briefly about the driving habits of Indonesians.  Yes, there are lanes, and I *think* there are actual road rules.  But no one seems to realize (or care) that they exist.  In addition to the insane amount of cars on the road, there are 20 times as many motorbikes.  Everywhere you go, it's like Bike Week, minus the tattoos, leather jackets and loud motorcycles.  Rather, it's like a Vespa road rally where no one has a helmet, half aren't wearing shoes, and 50% of the time at least one child is standing in front of or hanging onto the back of the driver.  Additionally, the bike riders seem to think that riding four bikes to a lane (those that recognize the existence of a lane) is an okay practice and overall it's just a free-for-all.  Scary stuff. 

Thanks to Jordan's expert driving skills, we arrived at our hotel without injury. We stayed in an area of Bali called Nusa Dua, right on the Indian Ocean.  The entrance to the Nusa Dua area includes a security stop, where the guards checked under the hood as well as the trunk.  We passed (phew! - I was worried they would confiscate our six pack of Bintang!) and our driver dropped us off at the Westin Nusa Dua.  After going through another security check (sadly, the effects of the 2002 Bali bombings are alive and well), we were greeted by the friendly staff and a lovely woman dressed in traditional Indonesian garb.

The entrance to Nusa Dua

While Jason was checking in, we were offered some fresh juice and the kids were delighted to receive their own Westin Kids Club "Adventure Bags".  (They named the bags that, not the hotel.)  All kids get this upon arrival, there is no additional fee or requirement to sign them up for anything.  Included was a nylon bag, bucket hat (the kind Gilligan wore - and yes, I had to google what it was called), water bottle and make-your-own postcard kit.  Also included was the incredible schedule of activities for the kids (more on that later).  The water bottle can be used at any of the hotel restaurants (including pool) for free juice or soft drinks.  I cannot tell you how much money that saved!

  

Our room was on the ground floor, with a nice patio overlooking the pool, and just a few steps to the beach and Indian Ocean.  The rooms are small, but that is normal for this region, including Singapore.  Surprisingly, the bathroom was quite large though.  Several bottles of water were included in the room each day, as well as the requisite slippers and bathrobes.  (There were also condoms in the minibar area, just in case that is high on your hotel requirement list.)  These are pictures of the bathroom from both sides.  The shower is in the same room as the bathtub, with no barrier.  You just shut the door take a bath or shower!  It really is quite nice.

  

We arrived at around 9pm, so we went to one of the hotel restaurants, Ikan, for a late dinner.  Jason and I shared the appetizer for two (satay, spring rolls, etc.) which was excellent.  We were first introduced to the local Indonesian beer, Bintang, at the previously discussed Circle K, and we continued with it at dinner.  I have to say...and so sorry Singapore....but Bintang is SO SO SO much better than Tiger Beer.  And it's so cheap here!  Even at the hotel it was about $5 USD for a draft.  (At the Circle K, it was like $1.50 a bottle!)  After dinner, we let the kids run around on the beach under the lights and search for shells and crabs for a few minutes.  No doubt Sophia was going to have fun on this vacation!

 

So after some Bintangs to go (the restaurant staff were amused, considering room service is 24 hours a day), we tucked the kiddos in bed and sat outside and marvelled at our surroundings.
 
The next day we got to see the hotel in the daylight - and wow...it did not disappoint.  The landscaping was beautiful, the lounge chairs top-notch, freshwater and saltwater pools, a water slide, and a gorgeous private beach.  We were in heaven.  The first thing we did was hit the breakfast buffet, which at $15 an adult and $7.50 a child was a bargain.  It was HUGE, offering everything from gourmet meats and cheeses to a fresh fruit juice bar, traditional Asian fare, made-to-order eggs, waffles, crepes and pancakes, as well as assorted pastries, cereals, fruits, breads...you name it, it was there.   There was even a separate kids buffet with colorful plastic plates, chocolate milk and a scaled down version of the bigger buffet.  Picnic tables and a flat-screen TV playing cartoons added to the kid vibe.

The cave between the fresh and saltwater pools

Fountain feature in the hotel

The Westin beach

After breakfast, we continued to explore.  The Westin resort is one of several resorts along the beach in that area, and the trail is just beautiful.  Lanterns hang from trees, and like all of Indonesia, there are temples everywhere.   (not like churches, but more like what us Americans would consider shrines)  Statues with sarongs, parasols and offering boxes are ubiquitous.  We didn't know anything about anything when we got there, but asked our taxi drivers and they clued us in a bit.  I'm in desperate need of doing some research to understand the religion (90% of Indonesians are Muslim - however most in Bali are Hindu).  I will get on that right away!

Little boy flying his pirate ship kite

Friday night we had dinner in the Japanese restaurant, Hamabe.  Since the kids had never had the experience, we opted for the Teppanyaki style dinner, although you could also have a regular sit-down dinner.  My pickiest eater, Cooper, was not so into it at first.  But thank goodness, he totally warmed up and we had a lovely dinner.  It wasn't a flashy show, like some hibachi style places can be, but the food was plentiful and delicious.  For the price (approx. $45 for adults and half that for kids), you had unlimited access to meats and fish including salmon, tuna, mussels, prawns, steak and chicken, and then of course all the vegetables, rice and soup included.  It was a great deal.  The kids wanted to go back the next night!

Saturday, we went to the Waterbom Water Park in Kuta.  Okay, okay, some of you are thinking right now...."They went to Bali and spent their time at a water park?"  Understandable thoughts, but you would be wrong.  First, it was Cooper's 7th birthday, so we wanted to do something we knew he would love, and second, it's just an AWESOME water park!  The price is right and the surroundings and rides are great!  You pay your entrance fee, but then put money on account on your electronic bracelet - a cashless system.  Jason enjoyed the wristband - it reminded him of that horrible Justin Timberlake movie, "In Time"...for everything you wanted, you just scanned your arm and moved on.

We rented a family cabana by the pool for about $20 for the day.  It was great - gave us a homebase and somewhere to eat.  Speaking of eating, the food was great!  There were so many types of food to eat, and it was inexpensive and higher quality than any park of this type I've been to.  I would highly recommend waiting until your kids are 7+ for the park, however.  Cooper just made the height limit for most of the rides.  (120 cm)  There were things for the younger kids to do, but at Cooper's height, you could do it all.  And he DID IT ALL!  My children are daredevils and I love it!

For a nominal fee (like $5 a kid), they can do the "Euro Bungy".  They basically attach the kids to bungy cords and they jump on a trampoline - REALLY high in the air.  It freaked me out a little, especially when both kids did somersaults, but not on purpose...but they both loved it.  Check out these pictures!  Jason thinks he's hilarious!

All in all, it was a fabulous day and I will go back every time I am in Bali (ha ha, that sounds like I will be there frequently!)  That evening the hotel delivered a cake to Cooper!  (at no charge to us!)

 

Just down the Nusa Dua resort trail along the beach is a little area that is not a separate island, but close.  Hopefully the pictures explain it better than my words can!  Tide was low, which allowed us to walk way offshore through what can only be described as an episode of Blue Planet - Tidal Pools.  Once on the little island area, it got a little nutty.  Some poor landscaper was literally cutting the grass with a knife.  There were several acres and he was just working on one little section.  How is this possible???  It was a largely deserted area with little trails out to the cliff areas.  Just indescribable.

 

On the opposite end of our resort area was a little peninsula with a Balinese structure (ignorant as I am, I have no idea what to call it).  It was so relaxing and the kids loved exploring the rock area.  Jason got up early one morning for sunrise and took the most amazing pictures there.

On Sunday, the kids signed up for the kids club.  The Westin has great indoor and outdoor areas, complete with rock wall, trampoline, playground equipment etc.  They have a full schedule for two age groups, 3-6 and 7-12, which goes from 9am-5pm and includes lunch ($25 a child for the day).  Sophia and Cooper spent a few hours there, but unfortunately got bored.  I'm not going to blame this on the Westin though, they were the only two kids in there at the time (the resort was not crowded at all).  With the exception of adding some more toys for their age group, I'm not sure it could have been run any better.

While they were in the kids club though, Jason and I took a nice stroll through Nusa Dua.  We browsed through the little shops and of course, stopped for a drink along the way.  Here are some of the things we saw:

Unfortunately, after a few more hours at the pool, our short trip had come to an end.  We were so unhappy to find out at the airport that our plane was delayed over two hours.  But eventually we got home (to find our security guard asleep on the job).  I have to say it's a lot easier to come home from a vacation when your residence is in a tropical climate.  That feeling of dread is definitely diminished, but not totally absent.  So what's a girl to do....plan the next trip!

If you'd like a sneak peek, we're going to a tiny island off of Malaysia called Tengah Island.   The resort, called Batu Batu, is the only thing on the island!  

Children, Eat Your Veggies! (aka Haw Par Villa Pt. 2)

Jason has previously posted on this insane Chinese "park", for lack of a better word.  For more background and Jason's witty observations, please read his post - this is just an addendum since I took the kids there today.

Jason really hit the nail on the head when he described it as a giant miniature golf course - minus the golfing.  It is a large (run-down) park with tons of sculptures depicting Chinese folklore.  You just can't even imagine how crazy it is unless you go there (I realize this is not an option for most of you).

Here are a few pics to get your imagination rolling:

 

Here is an example of the Chinese fables.  This plaque tells the story of a man who saved a tortoise from being sold at the market, then at a later date, when a boat the man was sailing on was sinking, the tortoise saved him. 

And here's the depiction in sculpture!

Rubbing the Buddha's belly for good luck!

The weirdest part is the "Ten Courts of Hell".  Here's how that goes.  When you die, you go one of three ways.  If you're a model human being (definitely not me), you get to go over the golden bridge to their version of heaven.  If you've had some minor infractions, you go over the silver bridge to lesser-heaven. (I can only hope I fall in this category)  If you're a bad, bad person, you go before the court for judgment.  And then, you are sent to your particular court of hell for punishment.

Entrance to the Ten Courts of Hell, guarded by "Horse-Face"
and "Ox-Face" (couldn't they be more creative than that!?)

And wow, we're not talking about the stocks or even caning.  Note the below "Sixth Court of Hell".  This court really is just begging for us all to make an appearance before it. Cheating, cursing, abducting others (okay, I'll give them that one), misuse of books, possession of pornographic materials, breaking written rules and regulations, and wasting food are the crimes.  For all of these infractions, the punishment is "body sawn in two".  Then the scenes gorily depict the punishment.  Yup, he's getting cut in half.

MORAL OF THE STORY:  Children, please eat your veggies. 

  

So that was today's field trip.  While in the courts of hell, I fielded about 1,000 questions from my fascinated (and totally unafraid) children.  And somehow managed to distract them from their questions of what prostitution and rape are.  (Look kids, look at that man being thrown in a huge wok of boiling water!)  They really seemed to enjoy it, and were reading the signs explaining the scenes.  When I told them that this park would probably not be around too much longer (land is a valuable commodity here!), Sophia was visibly upset.  Who knows....maybe she'll start a "Save Har Paw Villa" campaign!





Monkeys love juice boxes

Less than a month in Singapore and we went on our first overnight family field trip!  We've gotten to know a very nice family from New Hampshire, and when they asked us to accompany them to Singapore's Sentosa Island (nicknamed Singapore's Playground), we were totally up for the adventure. We packed a bag, booked a taxi and headed to Shangri-La's Rasa Sentosa Resort.

When we arrived, we were immediately greeted with a smile in the lovely open-air lobby. While Jason checked in, the kids and I headed out to the pool overlook. Wow. Between the beautiful pool and the view of the beach, the kids were ready to strip down and run to the water! 

We had heard that monkeys are regularly seen on the balconies, but weren't prepared for the sign on the patio door. I knew that crime in Singapore was almost non-existant, but I didn't realize that this did not apply to monkeys!

The pool did not disappoint. From the multi-level entries to the three water slides for the kids, there was more than enough to hold the interest of kids and adults alike. The lounge chairs were plentiful, as were the umbrellas. What sets apart hotels in Asia, and this one is right there with the best of them, is the service. The staff is friendly and will accomodate almost any request...with a smile. The best example I can give is this: I stumbled out of the ladies room and stubbed my big toe really badly (if you know me, you are in no way surprised, I am SUPER clumsy!). A member of the staff saw me and offered to help. I told him I was fine, but he came to where I was sitting THREE times. Once to bring me a band-aid, once to offer me ice and a third time just to check that I was better. How often does that happen?

The kids cozied up to the bar!

The beach was also lovely. Singapore is the second-busiest port in the world, so inevitably you're going to be looking at a lot of container ships. The Shangri-La is located on Siloso Beach (most of which is public, but the resort has a private area), which has a man-made wall built up so that it is shielded from the main waterway. This keeps most of the garbage from the South China Sea out, but of course not all. But it wasn't an issue, the water did not feel dirty at all, and Jason and kids had a nice time playing in the water (I played camaraman). My favorite moment was when our friends dug a hole in the sand....they said they were "digging a hole to the US".

Since we were there for such a brief visit, we didn't get a chance to sample too much food. We did, however, eat (and drink) a good amount off the pool bar menu. The spring rolls and fish and chips were great  and the draft Tiger beers were less expensive than many Singapore hotels. That night, both families ate together at one of several restaurants, the Silver Shell Cafe. They boasted a huge buffet, and they have every reason to boast.  Western, Indian, Singaporean, Chinese...all cultures were represented. There is also an a la carte menu, from which I chose.  My crab fried rice was "okay", but my friend Jody's laksa (a spicy noodle soup popular in Singapore and Malaysia) was really great. There was also a separate area of the buffet for the kids, offering traditional Western kid fare such as chicken nuggets and a chocolate fondue fountain. The marshmallows dipped in chocolate was a huge hit with all four kids! All in all, it was an enjoyable dinner.

View of the stairs up to the second floor lobby

At night, the resort was really beautiful. The lights are gorgeous and the pool is luminous. We hung out on lounge chairs while the kids swam until the 9pm closing time, and then the four of them spent quite a while catching toads in the grass (while us parents sat at a table with many more Tiger beers!). Once we forced them all into bed, it was nice to have the patio outside the room to relax on.

The next morning, the kids were delighted (that's actually a really weak word to describe them) to find that there really were monkeys in abundance. Not only did we see about eight monkeys hanging out on the balconies, but our friends said they woke up to two monkeys on their patio. One was eating out of a bag of potato chips, the other drinking out of a juice box!  Sophia saw one pull open a cracked balcony door and go into a room!

The following day, we decided to go zip-lining as a family.  We headed to the Mega-Zip Adventure Park and prepared to pay a crazy amount of money.  Our wishes came true!  But seriously, it was amazing to introduce the zip to Sophia and Cooper. We ziplined over Siloso Beach to Palawan Island and it was short but exciting.  I only say short because Jason and I have been really, really fortunate to have done ziplines in Hawaii and this was just one.  But the experience of taking young children made it absolutely worth it.  It would also be really exciting for adults who have never ziplined. 

So all in all, our first trip to Sentosa was fabulous.  There is just so much to do on this island, and we will be back many times.  I already know we will be here in August to review the new Universal Studios Sesame Street attraction - can't wait! (I am writing for a new travel blog...more on that later!)

Thank you Wes, Jody, Gunnar and Cassie for inviting us to go with you.  Many, many fun times ahead!

36 Hours in Mumbai

One of the greatest influences on our decision to pick up everything and move to Singapore, was the opportunity to explore parts of the world we never expected to see.  Over the last few weeks, I've prepared for the opportunity to do just that, scheduling a brief, yet insightful, visit to Mumbai, India.

After learning of my planned trip to India, I talked to many colleagues and friends in Singapore to understand what to expect.  Nearly every time I mentioned my visit, I was asked "have you been to India before?"   Upon answering "no", I often got nothing more than a smile and hearty laugh in response.....not quite what I had hoped for.  Others, however, gave me some really good advice about what to expect (unbelievable traffic, unimagineable poverty, and unwanted stomach bugs), what to see and what NOT to eat. 

They also told me about the possible medical dangers that awaited me - (hepatitis A & E, typhoid fever, chikungunya, dengue fever, Japanese encephalitis, malaria, leptospirosis, pathogenic H5N1 avian influenza, blue #5, etc.)  - often reciting the possible "contaminations" like they were reading the ingredients off the back of a bottle of hand soap.  So, I decided a visit to the doctor was in order before I departed. 

As an American with a caring, responsible mother, I know I've had my share of vaccinations......but unfortunately, I don't think a single one of them came after the age of.....well....diapers. (not because you didn't take me mom - rather, because I absolutely hate needles!!).  During my visit to the doctor, he too asked if I had been to India before.  I answered, "no" - and awaited the obligatory smile and chuckle.....but I got neither.  Instead he explained I was probably perfectly safe to hop on a plane with no further vaccinations, but suggested I consider a few things before I traveled.



Five (plus 1) Vaccination @ One Sitting = Fun!

As if I was considering additional premium channels for my cable TV hook-up, I listened to the options, nodded my head a bunch of times and watched as the doctor checked boxes and jotted notes.  About 10 minutes, two laughing nurses, a joke about "Delhi Belly" and five injections later, I was on my way out of the office, fairly sure I would now survive my first trip to India.

With all this build up about what to expect, and two shoulders worth of vaccines, I was surprised by what I experienced once I arrived in Mumbai.  Sure, the airport was not on par with Changhi International in Singapore - but it was no worse than JFK (I know, not a huge endorsement). 

There was a noticeable scent of curry almost immediately upon exiting the plane, but aside from that, I could have been at any international airport.  Immigration was fairly easy and a smiling, friendly driver, holding a sign with my name on it, was waiting just outside the baggage area.  So far, so good.

For the first few minutes of the drive toward my hotel, I noticed heavy amounts of dust, trash, dirt and rubble along the road - all obviously a result of the construction underway to connect the domestic and international terminals, right?

No - after another half mile, I realized the dust, dirt and trash were not solely from the construction - rather the entire city seemed to be shrouded in grey - as run down buildings, roadside storefronts, and massive slums spread out in almost every direction.  Residents were everywhere, roaming the streets, going about their lives in what was such a foreign, shocking environment to me.  Some were dressed for office jobs, wearing typical business attire (minus the suit coat.....it's really hot in Mumbai). Others were clearly not heading to an office, and instead were sifting through mountains of trash - looking for.....well, I don't know what they were looking for.

Auto-rickshaw in Mumbai

As we continued our drive, I was reminded of the stories I had heard regarding traffic and driving in Mumbai.  The congested roads were crowded with buses, taxis, auto-rickshaws, bicycles, delivery trucks, people, wild dogs, and yes, even a few wandering "sacred" cows.  Every one of them blowing a horn, ringing a bell, barking or "moo-ing" for the others to get out of their way. 

Now, I fully realize I am doing Mumbai an injustice in this post.  Having only a short business trip scheduled, I did not have time to venture out and see the city's more noteworthy sites, such as the Gateway of India or Queen's Necklace along Marine Drive.  Due to the length of my stay, these tourist sites were not something I was able to visit.  (I look forward to getting a little more perspective and culture on my next visit)

What I did see, however, displayed the vast discrepency between the haves and have-nots - all crammed together in a city of millions, with no real separation from one another.  In other words, there's no "good side and bad side of the tracks" that I witnessed.  Beautiful gated homes, gardens, and resorts shared borders with slums, run down buildings, and open space - often littered with trash, cows and children playing soccer or cricket.

Slums and Resorts - Exist Literally Side by Side

I also had a chance to enjoy a little taste of local culture and cuisine.  In general, everyone I met was very kind, welcoming and hospitable.  This included airport employees, service personnel at the hotel (not a huge surprise), shop keepers and the customers and partners I met with during the visit. 

During my trip, I was constantly offered a taste of local food - which I often turned away.  Not because I'm not a fan of curry (which I am not, coincidentally) - but because we had a family weekend trip planned to Bali two days after my return to Singapore to celebrate Cooper's 7th birthday. A case of "Delhi Belly" was not a risk I wanted to take before the family getaway!    Eventually I gave it a go, hoping for the best, and tried some of the local food.  Realizing my hosts were surely giving me options of moderate heat level, I was surprised at just how hot (spicy) the food was.  Atomic wings, 911 wings - whatever you think is hot in the US, I'm fairly sure it's got nothing on real Indian food.

While the food was decidedly hot - the women of the Bollywood style enteraintment I witnessed were decidely "not" (my opinion).  It was, however, very entertaining to see the crowd cheering for the Bollywood Stars who danced and sang (lipsynced) to local "hits".  All in all it was a very interesting, eye-opening experience and one I thoroughly enjoyed.

Following the entertainment, and with about 3 hours before my flight, I headed to the airport.  I was glad I did.  The drive at night to the airport was even more enlightening than the daytime commute.  Same players on the road (buses, rickshaws, taxis, bikes, cows and dogs) - but this time half with headlights, half with none - all somehow avoiding each other as they completely disregarded traffic rules and did whatever got them from point A to B the quickest. 

Upon arriving at the airport, I enjoyed a true taste of third-world country "innovation" - or lack there of.  First, my taxi arrived at the gates, after passing the first level of security (inclusive of two military trucks, each housing a machine gun turret).  Then I enjoyed a 30 minute wait, in 100 degree temperatures, slowly making my way to the second level of security....required to enter the airport.  Several machine gun toting soldiers (probably 17-19 years old) kept the crowd in order...but I have to admit it was a little unnerving.  There were hundreds of people - some were passengers, others were crying relatives waving goodbye to sons and daughters leaving Mumbai.  Still others seemed to be just hanging around.  I know I'm being dramatic, but the scene was reminiscent of the chaos just prior to a suicide bomber revealing himself in an episode of 24! 

Needless to say, I was pleased to be inside the airport - at least there was a hint of air conditioning and I could sit down and relax after a long day of customer and analyst meetings.  The red-eye from Mumbai to Singapore was a welcome opportunity to catch some sleep, but not near enough to feel refreshed and to prepare me for a day back in the office.  All the same, it was good to be back in Singapore and to see the kids, take a shower, and "wash off" my 36 hour trip to Mumbai.